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Simon, I just had my gearbox out to do the clutch and went through what you
are about to embark on. It is easy, albeit a bit time consuming as I find I
have to get under the car and then into the cabin over and over! Do not
worry about things getting out of alignment, it is easy to get everything
back in. Support the gearbox with a jack and then when replacing them you
can lift it slightly to make it easy to re-fit the mounts. Completely undo
the stabilizer (tie-rod) when doing this and leave it undone to the end of
the job so you can move the gearbox around to align bolt holes. Do not
overlook the two bolts that are accessed from underneath and from inside the
open cross member.
When re-assembling, jack the g'box up just a wee bit so you can maneuver the
mounts. Install the mounts to the gearbox first and tighten, At least on my
BT7, and I suspect on most cars, the mounts are under a little tension and
if they are at all not complexly straight it is hard to tighten those two
bolts (2 per side), so do them first. Then I would loosely fit the ones
underneath, but do not tighten so you can align the holes for the remaining
2 bolts (per side) on top. When all 6 bolts holding the mounts to the
chassis are well installed, let the jack down then tighten them. Don't
forget to do the stabilizer back up before you finish.
While you have that great access check the front driveshaft U/J for wear
and replace if there is any play whatsoever in it. If its ok, grease it
while you are there, The four front driveshaft flange nuts should be
trapped under two locking tabs. If they aren't because someone in the past
thought lock washers were a better idea, consider removing the nuts and
installing the locking tabs and do it right. Then put the interior back in.
Enjoy, Mirek
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: January-21-19 4:57 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Rear engine mountings
Hi,
See attached.
I've replaced the big engine mountings in the engine bay. Horrible job.
I'll replace all the tie-rod rubber before replacing it. Easy enough.
But I've not got round to the other bits, parts 24 & 27. Easy to access at
first glance. Is there any hidden snag? If I undo those nuts, will I ever
line it all up again?
I can see that the engine and gearbox might want to sag down a couple of
inches onto the cross bar, no great problem. But will the whole thing have
some inherent tendency to get out of line and stay out of line? ie, are
there any hidden snags? Any necessary precautions?
Thanks
Simon
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-CA =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Simon, I just had my gearbox out to do the clutch and =
went through what you are about to embark on. It is easy, albeit a =
bit time consuming as I find I have to get under the car and then into =
the cabin over and over! Do not worry about things getting out of =
alignment, it is easy to get everything back in. Support the =
gearbox with a jack and then when replacing them you can lift it =
slightly to make it easy to re-fit the mounts. Completely undo the =
stabilizer (tie-rod) when doing this and leave it undone to the end of =
the job so you can move the gearbox around to align bolt holes. Do =
not overlook the two bolts that are accessed from underneath and from =
inside the open cross member.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>When =
re-assembling, jack the g’box up just a wee bit so you can =
maneuver the mounts. Install the mounts to the gearbox first and =
tighten, At least on my BT7, and I suspect on most cars, the =
mounts are under a little tension and if they are at all not complexly =
straight it is hard to tighten those two bolts (2 per side), so do them =
first. Then I would loosely fit the ones underneath, but do not =
tighten so you can align the holes for the remaining 2 bolts (per side) =
on top. When all 6 bolts holding the mounts to the chassis are =
well installed, let the jack down then tighten them. Don’t =
forget to do the stabilizer back up before you finish. <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>While you =
have that great access check the front driveshaft U/J for wear and =
replace if there is any play whatsoever in it. If its ok, grease =
it while you are there, The four front driveshaft flange nuts =
should be trapped under two locking tabs. If they aren’t because =
someone in the past thought lock washers were a better idea, consider =
removing the nuts and installing the locking tabs and do it right. =
Then put the interior back in.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Enjoy, =
Mirek<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";mso-fareast-l=
anguage:EN-CA'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";mso-fareast-l=
anguage:EN-CA'> Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On =
Behalf Of </b>simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com<br><b>Sent:</b> =
January-21-19 4:57 AM<br><b>To:</b> Healeys<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] =
Rear engine mountings<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Hi,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>See attached.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>I’ve replaced the big engine =
mountings in the engine bay. Horrible job.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>I’ll replace all the tie-rod =
rubber before replacing it. Easy enough.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>But I’ve not got round to the =
other bits, parts 24 & 27. Easy to access at first glance. Is there =
any hidden snag? If I undo those nuts, will I ever line it all up =
again?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>I =
can see that the engine and gearbox might want to sag down a couple of =
inches onto the cross bar, no great problem. But will the whole thing =
have some inherent tendency to get out of line and stay out of line? ie, =
are there any hidden snags? Any necessary =
precautions?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Thanks<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
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