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Sounds not unlike: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1
In case replacement of the mounting plate is necessary, how do those
that have done it locate the new plate on the tower? Of course, you can
adjust the camber, but how do you position the plate before welding to
get the correct caster? I've given it quite a bit of thought and, short
of welding or bolting some type of 'jig' on the top of the tower I can't
see how to easily, and accurately, do it.
Bob
On 2/17/2019 2:23 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Gerry,
> The problem that you have encountered is not too uncommon, or at least
> used to be.
> We developed a repair scheme that we used quite frequently to resolve
> this.
> The process involved cutting the outer end off the "box" that the the
> shock mounts on and then using a punch of some sort to break all the
> "weld nuts" from the upper surface of the "box".
> We then cut a piece of 1/2" (I think that is the correct thickness)
> thick hot rolled steel plate to size such that it would snugly slide
> completely inside the "box".
> Using the existing holes in the upper surface of the "box" as a
> template the 4 holes for the shock bolts and 2 holes for the rebound
> rubber were marked out. The plate was then removed (sometimes it was
> necessary to drill a hole in the inner end of the "box" and use a
> parallel punch to drive the plate out) and drilled and tapped for the
> appropriate threads before being reinserted and welded at the outer
> end to secure it in position.
> A little time consuming but the end result was a very strong, almost
> undetectable permanent repair.
>
> Michael S
>
> On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 10:52 AM Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net
>
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<p>Sounds not unlike:
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1";>http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1</a></p>
<p>In case replacement of the mounting plate is necessary, how do
those that have done it locate the new plate on the tower? Of
course, you can adjust the camber, but how do you position the
plate before welding to get the correct caster? I've given it
quite a bit of thought and, short of welding or bolting some type
of 'jig' on the top of the tower I can't see how to easily, and
accurately, do it.</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/17/2019 2:23 PM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAB3i7LKNmbCADrEdvw_rcStrRM94tJYg6yOpc6pxqqcQFnWVeA@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Gerry,</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The problem that you have
encountered is not too uncommon, or at least used to be.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">We developed a repair scheme
that we used quite frequently to resolve this.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The process involved cutting
the outer end off the "box" that the the shock mounts on and
then using a punch of some sort to break all the "weld nuts"
from the upper surface of the "box".</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">We then cut a piece of 1/2"
(I think that is the correct thickness) thick hot rolled
steel plate to size such that it would snugly slide
completely inside the "box". <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Using the existing holes in
the upper surface of the "box" as a template the 4 holes for
the shock bolts and 2 holes for the rebound rubber were
marked out. The plate was then removed (sometimes it was
necessary to drill a hole in the inner end of the "box" and
use a parallel punch to drive the plate out) and drilled and
tapped for the appropriate threads before being reinserted
and welded at the outer end to secure it in position.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">A little time consuming but
the end result was a very strong, almost undetectableÂ
permanent repair. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at
10:52 AM Bob Haskell <<a
href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
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