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Greetings
All fixed and running as I wanted it to.
Many thanks to everyone who took the trouble to write and let me know their=
thoughts. Much appreciated!
As much as realise that they work, I wanted to remove the thermo switch con=
trol of the electric fan. Remember this is a real Healey that dates from 19=
48 and the under-bonnet switch with its wires and capillary tube just looke=
d out of place and plain ugly. What I eventually did was to run a power wir=
e from the input of the combined ignition/light switch, through an inline f=
use to a switch and on to the fan which is earthed at the side of the radia=
tor.
Works well and does not impact on the ignition light. It does of course sen=
d the ammeter needle way into the negative, but it did that before when it =
was controlled by the thermo switch.
I managed to hide the wires so under the bonnet looks like it did when it l=
eft the Donald Healey Motor Company in 1948.
Hoo Roo
Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia
From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:09 PM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit
Hi Patrick, I would agree that using the fused connection on the "ignition=
switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be a good idea. The i=
gnition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a source you do ru=
n a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a short to ground occur in your =
fan system.
You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more than the fuse=
s can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous loads in =
mind.
To circumvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the "ignition sw=
itched" section of the fuse block as the source and install an "in line" fu=
se to protect the fan circuit.
I cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a =
fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major =
undertaking.
M
On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, <p_cquinn@tpg.com.a=
u> wrote:
Hello
Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics.
My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was contr=
olled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of p=
ower but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would always hov=
er in the negative.
Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been w=
ired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is take=
n directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan on=
ly comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.
Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated=
and will not go out.
Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have =
done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of th=
e ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would=
that work?
Any electrical whizzes out there?
Thanks
Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia
---
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-AU link=3Dblue vli=
nk=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'f=
ont-size:11.0pt'>Greetings<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal=
><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>All fixed and running as I wanted it to.<=
o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>=
<o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:1=
1.0pt'>Many thanks to everyone who took the trouble to write and let me kno=
w their thoughts. Much appreciated!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNorm=
al><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3D=
MsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>As much as realise that they wor=
k, I wanted to remove the thermo switch control of the electric fan. Rememb=
er this is a real Healey that dates from 1948 and the under-bonnet switch w=
ith its wires and capillary tube just looked out of place and plain ugly. W=
hat I eventually did was to run a power wire from the input of the combined=
ignition/light switch, through an inline fuse to a switch and on to the fa=
n which is earthed at the side of the radiator.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p=
><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>Works well and does =
not impact on the ignition light. It does of course send the ammeter needle=
way into the negative, but it did that before when it was controlled by th=
e thermo switch.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'f=
ont-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span sty=
le=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>I managed to hide the wires so under the bonnet loo=
ks like it did when it left the Donald Healey Motor Company in 1948.<o:p></=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'=
>Hoo Roo<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size=
:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'fo=
nt-size:11.0pt'>Patrick Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><sp=
an style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>Blue Mountains, Australia<o:p></o:p></span></=
p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></=
span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:10.0=
pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US st=
yle=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Michael Salter =
[mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:0=
9 PM<br><b>To:</b> Patrick and Caroline Quinn<br><b>Cc:</b> healeys@autox.t=
eam.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit<o:p></o:p></span>=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hi =
Patrick, I would agree that using the fused connection on the "i=
gnition switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be a =
;good idea. The ignition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a=
source you do run a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a sho=
rt to ground occur in your fan system. <o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3D=
MsoNormal>You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more tha=
n the fuses can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous=
loads in mind. <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>To circ=
umvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the "<span style=
=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>ignition switched" section of th=
e fuse block as the source and install an "in line" fuse to prote=
ct the fan circuit. </span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNor=
mal><span style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>I cannot overemphasize=
the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a fuse, it very easy to =
damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major undertaking. </sp=
an><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></di=
v><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"=
'>M</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p>=
</p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick &a=
mp; Caroline Quinn, <<a href=3D"mailto:p_cquinn@tpg.com.au"; target=3D"_b=
lank">p_cquinn@tpg.com.au</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote st=
yle=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm 6.0p=
t;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal style=
=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Hello<o:p></o:p></p=
><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-al=
t:auto'> Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics=
=2E<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso=
-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> My real Healey has an electric fan in front =
of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably w=
ell, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp=
gauge needle would always hover in the negative. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&=
nbsp;Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now be=
en wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is =
taken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fa=
n only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.<o:p=
></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin=
-bottom-alt:auto'> Works well, but now when the fan goes on the igniti=
on light is illuminated and will not go out.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> Doe=
s that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have done=
? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the ig=
nition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would tha=
t work?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto=
;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> Any electrical whizzes out there?<o:p></=
o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bo=
ttom-alt:auto'> Thanks<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso=
-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> Patrick Quinn<o:p></=
o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bo=
ttom-alt:auto'>Blue Mountains, Australia <o:p></o:p></p></div></div></block=
quote></div></div><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
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