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Bob
If memory serves me correctly you will not have much trouble with the nuts.=
Captive is not what I would call the nuts used to secure the shocks and s=
hock buffer to the top plate. There is not a cage or spot welds on the fla=
ts of the nuts. I believe they are just resistance welded to the bottom su=
rface of the top plate and the nuts will part ways with the plate fairly ea=
sily.=20
Before someone figured out to adjust the camber with these plates we used t=
o fix the stripped or missing shock mounting nuts by inserting a =C2=BD inc=
h steel plate with predrilled and threaded holes in the same location. It w=
as easier than cutting off the entire top plate and rewelding it. Only had =
to cut the outboard edge off, insert plate and reweld.=20
This was a long time ago, like 50 years. Feeling a bit old right now!=20
Perry
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 8:09 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Front Shock Camber Plates
I recently acquired a set of these:
https://tomsimport.com/category/new-parts/front-shock-plate/
I'm not in immediate danger of installing them yet, but I'm starting to=20
plan the operation.=C2=A0 I'll cut off the outer part of the mounts clean,=
=20
elongate the holes, install the plates and weld the end sections back=20
on.=C2=A0 My question, for anyone who's (successfully) done this--not=20
necessarily the welding part--is: How did you remove the captive nuts=20
and any remnants of the welds that held them?=C2=A0 It seems to me, if you=
=20
don't clean off the welds then then plates won't sit flat on the=20
underside of the shock mounts, and strength would be diminished.=C2=A0 I ha=
ve=20
no proof, but intuitively it seems these plates would strengthen the=20
mounts, as the tension load on the four bolts would be spread across the=20
plates--and a greater area of the mounts--instead of just being applied=20
to the captive nuts.
Bob
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72"><div cla=
ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Bob</p><p class=3DMsoNormal>If memor=
y serves me correctly you will not have much trouble with the nuts.=C2=A0 C=
aptive is not what I would call the nuts used to secure the shocks and shoc=
k buffer to the top plate. =C2=A0There is not a cage or spot welds on the f=
lats of the nuts. =C2=A0I believe they are just resistance welded to the bo=
ttom surface of the top plate and the nuts will part ways with the plate fa=
irly easily. </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Before someone figured out to adjust =
the camber with these plates we used to fix the stripped or missing shock m=
ounting nuts by inserting a =C2=BD inch steel plate with predrilled and thr=
eaded holes in the same location. It was easier than cutting off the entire=
top plate and rewelding it. Only had to cut the outboard edge off, insert =
plate and reweld. </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>This was a long time ago, like 5=
0 years. Feeling a bit old right now! </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Perry</p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sent from <a hr=
ef=3D"https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986";>Mail</a> for Window=
s 10</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div style=3D'mso-element=
:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0=
in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'border:none;padding:0in'><b>From:=
</b><a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>Bob Spidell</a><br><b>Sent: </=
b>Friday, June 28, 2019 8:09 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mailto:healeys@aut=
ox.team.net">Healeys</a><br><b>Subject: </b>[Healeys] Front Shock Camber Pl=
ates</p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNorma=
l>I recently acquired a set of these:</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </=
o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>https://tomsimport.com/category/new-parts/fron=
t-shock-plate/</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoN=
ormal>I'm not in immediate danger of installing them yet, but I'm starting =
to </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>plan the operation. I'll cut off the oute=
r part of the mounts clean, </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>elongate the holes, in=
stall the plates and weld the end sections back </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>on=
. My question, for anyone who's (successfully) done this--not </p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>necessarily the welding part--is: How did you remove the =
captive nuts </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>and any remnants of the welds that he=
ld them? It seems to me, if you </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>don't clean =
off the welds then then plates won't sit flat on the </p><p class=3DMsoNorm=
al>underside of the shock mounts, and strength would be diminished. I=
have </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>no proof, but intuitively it seems these pla=
tes would strengthen the </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>mounts, as the tension lo=
ad on the four bolts would be spread across the </p><p class=3DMsoNormal>pl=
ates--and a greater area of the mounts--instead of just being applied </p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal>to the captive nuts.</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> =
;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Bob</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:=
p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></htm=
l>=
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