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   Thanks Michael, on your suggestion I checked the ground wire on the
regulator, and the resistance to a known good ground, from the 3
regulator mounting screws (yes they isolate the regulator from ground,
but make a ground connection test point) was 0.3 ohms, and the regulator
base/backing plate was 0.4 ohms, to the same known good ground. It
remained that way during and after wiggling the ground wire, on the
grounding point on the regulator, and where the screw connects it to
ground. So I think this rules out a loose ground. The meter used is a
Fluke 77 series III, so I trust what the meter is reading.
   ov
On 30-Jun.-2019 6:01 p.m., Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Oliver, not sure if this will help but I chased a similar problem
> many years back which turned out to be caused by a poor but not
> completely failed ground of the regulator E terminal.
> Might be worth checking that carefully.
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Jun 30, 2019, 8:43 PM Oliver Viitamaki, <ov@telus.net
>
>
> Â Â Â Â What is the current thought on getting a replacement for a RB340
> Voltage Regulator? Which supplier? I'm at the moment not
> interested in
> sending the regulator in for a rebuild.
>
> Â Â Â Â The car is still positive ground, and I'm leaning to a
> replacement
> mechanical regulator, assuming that a Lucas one can be found. I
> can be
> convinced to go electronic, and convert to negative ground, given
> enough
> evidence.
>
> Â Â Â Â Â Background: I went to wash the car, and noticed that the red
> Ignition light came on, as it should, when the key was turned,
> went off
> as expected when the engine was idling. As soon as the engine was
> speed-ed up, at about 1500 rpm, the ignition light would brighten,
> come
> back on. Troubleshooting so far, I completed the Lucas RB340
> generator
> checkout, procedure successfully, and as a crosscheck, I successfully
> ran it as a motor. Then I turned my focus to the Lucas RB340
> regulator
> checkout procedure, and it showed that Open Circuit setting out of
> spec,
> could not be adjusted in and the swamp resistor was out of spec.
>
> Â Â Â Â ov
>
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<p>Â Â Â Thanks Michael, on your suggestion I checked the ground wire
on the regulator, and the resistance to a known good ground, from
the 3 regulator mounting screws (yes they isolate the regulator
from ground, but make a ground connection test point) was 0.3
ohms, and the regulator base/backing plate was 0.4 ohms, to the
same known good ground. It remained that way during and after
wiggling the ground wire, on the grounding point on the regulator,
and where the screw connects it to ground. So I think this rules
out a loose ground. The meter used is a Fluke 77 series III, so I
trust what the meter is reading.</p>
<p>Â Â Â ov<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 30-Jun.-2019 6:01 p.m., Michael
Salter wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAB3i7L+Lyw_0w7x=BYGp=ooK6tFjjw9DDOXaF=4KCraGZVwawA@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="auto">Hi Oliver, not sure if this will help but IÂ
chased a similar problem many years back which turned out to be
caused by a poor but not completely failed ground of the
regulator E terminal.Â
<div dir="auto">Might be worth checking that carefully. </div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">M</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Jun 30, 2019, 8:43 PM
Oliver Viitamaki, <<a href="mailto:ov@telus.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">ov@telus.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><br>
    What is the current thought on getting a replacement for
a RB340 <br>
Voltage Regulator? Which supplier? I'm at the moment not
interested in <br>
sending the regulator in for a rebuild.<br>
<br>
    The car is still positive ground, and I'm leaning to a
replacement <br>
mechanical regulator, assuming that a Lucas one can be found.
I can be <br>
convinced to go electronic, and convert to negative ground,
given enough <br>
evidence.<br>
<br>
     Background: I went to wash the car, and noticed that the
red <br>
Ignition light came on, as it should, when the key was turned,
went off <br>
as expected when the engine was idling. As soon as the engine
was <br>
speed-ed up, at about 1500 rpm, the ignition light would
brighten, come <br>
back on. Troubleshooting so far, I completed the Lucas RB340
generator <br>
checkout, procedure successfully, and as a crosscheck, I
successfully <br>
ran it as a motor. Then I turned my focus to the Lucas RB340
regulator <br>
checkout procedure, and it showed that Open Circuit setting
out of spec, <br>
could not be adjusted in and the swamp resistor was out of
spec.<br>
<br>
    ov<br>
<br>
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