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OK, I just had a panic attack as I didn't remember any 'rubber seal that
presses onto its inside edge is also in place.' According to the Moss
catalog, at least, the later BJ8s had a backing plate with a smaller
cutout that didn't require the seal. There are other differences between
earlier and later '3000s'--not the least the calipers, the pads and the
thickness of the rotors--so we might need to be more specific.
My BJ8 has always needed about 0.030" of shims give-or-take through a
couple sets of hubs and bearings. All things considered, disk brakes
are substantially different to work on than drums (IMO, of course).
Bob
On 9/17/2019 8:07 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Yes, you do need the back plate, and I would ensure that the rubber
> seal that presses onto its inside edge is also in place. If you donâ??t
> have them (they deteriorate over time), they are available from the
> usual suppliers. You are right the drawings on assembly are ambiguous
> â?? even in the parts book. I put mine on the way they came off, and it
> has been five years since I last did them. I recall it is relatively
> obvious but I always note the assembly when taking it apart.  I donâ??t
> trust my memory to describe it â?? I will leave that to others.
>
> Donâ??t be intimidated by setting up the front bearings, it really is
> not that hard at all and the factory workshop manual provides good
> guidance. Norm Nock also has a description in his book â??Tech Talkâ??,
> which is still available from British Car Specialists. Â Â It is
> important to have a selection of a few shims handy. When I last did
> mine, I followed the workshop procedure and when I got it almost
> perfect added/subtracted shims and spun the hub by hand, feeling for
> drag until I was satisfied that the bearings were running free, but
> that there was absolutely no end- play in them. Â Some people use a
> dial gauge to measure end-float, but I think it is unnecessary and
> have always (i.e., for over 40 years), done it by feel. Â Â Make sure
> when you are setting up the bearings that you have some good calipers
> (i.e., decent metal ones, not plastic), or use a micrometer, to check
> the shim thicknesses â?? donâ??t rely on whatever the package says â??
> measure  them! Do not grease the bearings when setting them up. I
> sprayed mine with some WD40 to provide some lubrication just while
> setting them up as you should not spin dry bearings, but a very light
> oil (3 in 1?) would probably be OK. When you are satisfied with the
> set up, then disassemble, noting the shims you used, wash out the
> light oil you used with a solvent, then pack the bearings, install the
> seal and put it all back together. Â Be sure to dry _all _the solvent
> out of the bearings, preferably using compressed air, but paper towel
> and perhaps a hair dryer would work, Â before packing with grease.
>
> Getting this right is really important as it substantially adds to the
> strength of the front axle assemble and minimizes cracking and failure
> of the stub axle.
>
> Put on some music, have a beer, and enjoy it.
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *Michael MacLean
> *Sent:* September-17-19 4:14 PM
> *To:* Healeys
> *Subject:* [Healeys] 3000 Front Brakes
>
> Can someone post a PDF of a service manual parts breakdown
> illustration of the front disc brakes of a 3000? I see the picture in
> the Moss catalog, but I do not see the way the backplate attaches to
> the assembly. Do I even need to attach the backplates? Right now I
> have a bare swivel axle and need the assembly order of the brakes and
> extended splined hub. As far as I can glean from all the info I have
> gathered so far, the caliper mounting plate should go on first, then
> the splined hub and disc assembly. (a major source of apprehension in
> itself)Â After that I can assemble the caliper and brake line
> connections. Did I miss something? That kind of glosses the assembly
> over. It's going to be more work than it sounds as I have never done
> anything other that drum brakes on the front of my Bugeye. The
> splined hub installation with the shims and lining up the split pin
> sound like barrels of fun. It's finally cool enough nights to go back
> out into my garage and bust some knuckles.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
>
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OK, I just had a panic attack as I didn't remember any '<span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">rubber
seal that presses onto its inside edge is also in place.'Â
According to the Moss catalog, at least, the later BJ8s had a
backing plate with a smaller cutout that didn't require the seal.Â
There are other differences between earlier and later '3000s'--not
the least the calipers, the pads and the thickness of the
rotors--so we might need to be more specific.<br>
<br>
My BJ8 has always needed about 0.030" of shims give-or-take
through a couple sets of hubs and bearings. All things
considered, disk brakes are substantially different to work on
than drums (IMO, of course).<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
</span><br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/17/2019 8:07 PM, Mirek Sharp
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Mike,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Yes,
you do need the back plate, and I would ensure that the
rubber seal that presses onto its inside edge is also in
place. If you donâ??t have them (they deteriorate over time),
they are available from the usual suppliers. You are right
the drawings on assembly are ambiguous â?? even in the parts
book. I put mine on the way they came off, and it has been
five years since I last did them. I recall it is relatively
obvious but I always note the assembly when taking it
apart.  I donâ??t trust my memory to describe it â?? I will
leave that to others.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Donâ??t
be intimidated by setting up the front bearings, it really
is not that hard at all and the factory workshop manual
provides good guidance. Norm Nock also has a description in
his book â??Tech Talkâ??, which is still available from British
Car Specialists. Â Â It is important to have a selection of a
few shims handy. When I last did mine, I followed the
workshop procedure and when I got it almost perfect
added/subtracted shims and spun the hub by hand, feeling for
drag until I was satisfied that the bearings were running
free, but that there was absolutely no end- play in them.Â
 Some people use a dial gauge to measure end-float, but I
think it is unnecessary and have always (i.e., for over 40
years), done it by feel. Â Â Make sure when you are setting up
the bearings that you have some good calipers (i.e., decent
metal ones, not plastic), or use a micrometer, to check the
shim thicknesses â?? donâ??t rely on whatever the package says â??
measure  them! Do not grease the bearings when setting them
up. I sprayed mine with some WD40 to provide some
lubrication just while setting them up as you should not
spin dry bearings, but a very light oil (3 in 1?) would
probably be OK. When you are satisfied with the set up,
then disassemble, noting the shims you used, wash out the
light oil you used with a solvent, then pack the bearings,
install the seal and put it all back together. Â Be sure to
dry <u>all </u>the solvent out of the bearings, preferably
using compressed air, but paper towel and perhaps a hair
dryer would work, Â before packing with grease.
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Getting
this right is really important as it substantially adds to
the strength of the front axle assemble and minimizes
cracking and failure of the stub axle.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Put
on some music, have a beer, and enjoy it.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Cheers,Â
Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US"> Healeys
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of
</b>Michael MacLean<br>
<b>Sent:</b> September-17-19 4:14 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] 3000 Front
Brakes<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Can someone post a PDF of a service
manual parts breakdown illustration of the front disc
brakes of a 3000? I see the picture in the Moss catalog,
but I do not see the way the backplate attaches to the
assembly. Do I even need to attach the backplates? Right
now I have a bare swivel axle and need the assembly order
of the brakes and extended splined hub. As far as I can
glean from all the info I have gathered so far, the
caliper mounting plate should go on first, then the
splined hub and disc assembly. (a major source of
apprehension in itself)Â After that I can assemble the
caliper and brake line connections. Did I miss
something? That kind of glosses the assembly over. It's
going to be more work than it sounds as I have never done
anything other that drum brakes on the front of my
Bugeye. The splined hub installation with the shims and
lining up the split pin sound like barrels of fun. It's
finally cool enough nights to go back out into my garage
and bust some knuckles.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mike MacLean<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
</body>
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