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Re: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397

To: Harold Manifold <manifold@telus.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397
From: richard mayor <boyracer466@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 09:42:30 -0800
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <9C37ED46562D4ECC91F2AAEA88A53579@AllInOne>
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The "clip" shown in the photo is something you can fab up yourself. The
lower hole is the size of the manifold stud.  The top hole is where the
real clip, the clip that actually holds the capillary tube, fits into.  It
is smaller than the stud hole. Can't tell you precisely here, but the size
is critical to hold the small clip securely.  The clip I am referring to is
very similar to the clip that holds the slave cylinder clutch hydraulic
line to the right side footwell, in the vertical position.



On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 9:14 AM Harold Manifold <manifold@telus.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> My car was missing the clips to support the water temperature gauge
> capillary pipe part number AHB5397. It looks like the design was changed
> sometime during the Mk II production or later. My car is a Mk I. The part I
> am looking for is No. 25 on the attached PDF. It is not available from the
> "usual suspects" on either sides of the pond.
>
> Does anyone know a source? I can make the part but would like to have a
> sketch to work from. I am fine with used parts in reasonable shape as well.
>
> Any assistance is appreciated.
>
> Harold
> 1960 BT7 Mk1
>
> PS - A significant contributor to over heating when slowing down after a
> long drive is the lower water flow generated by the water pump. Lets face
> it the the AH cooling system is marginal and there is no magic solution.
> Best practise says use a water and antifreeze mixture, make sure there are
> no restrictions in the radiator (tubes starting to plug), drill a 1/16"
> hole in the thermostat to help eliminate any trapped air, add a coolant
> overflow with the right cap to maximize water in the system, use a 5 or 6
> blade fan and keep all of the shrouding in place.
>
>
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>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>The &quot;clip&quot; shown in the photo is something =
you can fab up yourself. The lower hole is the size of the manifold stud.=
=C2=A0 The top hole is where the real clip, the clip that actually holds th=
e capillary tube, fits into.=C2=A0 It is smaller than the stud hole. Can&#3=
9;t tell you precisely here, but the size is critical to hold the small cli=
p securely.=C2=A0 The clip I am referring to is very similar to the clip th=
at holds the slave cylinder clutch hydraulic line to the right side footwel=
l, in the vertical position.<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div><=
br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun,=
 Nov 3, 2019 at 9:14 AM Harold Manifold &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:manifold@telu=
s.net">manifold@telus.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmai=
l_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,20=
4,204);padding-left:1ex"><u></u>



<div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span>Hello,</span></font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span></span></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span>My car was missing=20
the clips to support the water temperature gauge capillary pipe part number=
=20
AHB5397. It looks like the design was changed sometime during the Mk II=20
production or later. My car is a Mk I. The part I am looking for is No. 25 =
on=20
the attached PDF. It is=C2=A0not available from the &quot;usual suspects&qu=
ot;=20
on=C2=A0either=C2=A0sides of the pond.</span></font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span></span></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span>Does anyone know a=20
source? I can make the part but would like to have a sketch to work from. I=
 am=20
fine with used parts in reasonable shape as well.</span></font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span></span></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span>Any assistance is=20
appreciated.</span></font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span></span></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span>Harold</span></font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span>1960 BT7=20
Mk1</span></font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span></span></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span>PS - A significant=20
contributor to over heating when slowing down after a long drive is the low=
er=20
water flow generated by the water pump. Lets face it the the AH cooling sys=
tem=20
is marginal and there is no magic solution. Best practise says use a water =
and=20
antifreeze mixture, make sure there are no restrictions in the radiator (tu=
bes=20
starting to plug), drill a 1/16&quot; hole in the thermostat to help=C2=A0e=
liminate=20
any trapped=C2=A0air, add a coolant overflow with the right cap to maximize=
=20
water in the system, use a 5 or 6 blade fan and keep all of the=C2=A0shroud=
ing=20
in place.</span></font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span></span></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"><span></span></font>=C2=A0</div></div>
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</blockquote></div>

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