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Harold,
The gap you achieved looks normal to me. I have similar on my BJ8,
which I overhauled a couple years ago. The gaskets I purchased from
Moss were much thicker--I didn't measure them, but I recall thinking
they were between 1/8" and 1/4"--than the ones in your photo, and they
looked like cork impregnated with something (looked like rubber, but
that can't be, can it?). Seeing that Moss charges almost $5 for the
thin gaskets in your photo, stacking 3-4ea in each 'gap' would amount to
a ridiculous amount of money for them. When I rebuilt my engine a long
time ago, the gaskets kinda disintegrated over time anyway, and I didn't
see any ill effect. In a V-type engine (6 or 8) with a carburettor, hot
coolant gets circulated around the base of the carburetter to offset
'carb icing' due to the cooling effect of the fuel being vaporized (my
dad's '55 T-Bird has a flapper valve that gates hot exhaust gas to the
carb, and is supposed to shut off when the engine gets hot but I doubt
it works properly after all these years). Anyway, the intake manifold
is stacked on the exhaust because 1) the exhaust manifold heats the
intake to offset the evaporative cooling effect and 2) that's the only
place it can go (unless you have a 'cross-flow' head design, like on the
100S engine). I can only guess the gasket is there to somehow modulate
the heating effect but, since it's just a damn gasket there isn't much
it can do.
I'd call Tom Monaco at Tom's Import Toys and ask him. He's a Moss
reseller--at a 10% discount--and may have a (very colorful)
explanation. Otherwise, check around and see if anybody has the
'proper' thick gasket and, if not, you can either pay Moss' ransom or do
without them.
Bob
On 11/17/2019 12:04 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:
> Hello,
> I need the advise of this esteemed forum once again.I was dry fitting
> the exhaust and intake manifold and noted the holes didn't line up
> properly on the head side. I used washers as shims until the holes
> lined up and ended up with a 0.171" gap between the two manifolds. See
> the pictures. The Moss gasket I have (021-429) is 0.047" thick. It
> would require 3-4 gaskets to properly fill the gap. Is there another
> gasket that is thicker? The BMC part number for the gasket is AEC950.
> I seem to remember the original gasket was thicker but it got
> destroyed during disassembly. Is this a case of switching to a
> non-asbestos modern gasket material?
> One solution is to use multiple gaskets. Is there a better solution?
> Car is a 1960 BT7 Mk1 2 Carb.
> Thanks ... Harold
>
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Harold,<br>
<br>
The gap you achieved looks normal to me. I have similar on my BJ8,
which I overhauled a couple years ago. The gaskets I purchased from
Moss were much thicker--I didn't measure them, but I recall thinking
they were between 1/8" and 1/4"--than the ones in your photo, and
they looked like cork impregnated with something (looked like
rubber, but that can't be, can it?). Seeing that Moss charges
almost $5 for the thin gaskets in your photo, stacking 3-4ea in each
'gap' would amount to a ridiculous amount of money for them. When I
rebuilt my engine a long time ago, the gaskets kinda disintegrated
over time anyway, and I didn't see any ill effect. In a V-type
engine (6 or 8) with a carburettor, hot coolant gets circulated
around the base of the carburetter to offset 'carb icing' due to the
cooling effect of the fuel being vaporized (my dad's '55 T-Bird has
a flapper valve that gates hot exhaust gas to the carb, and is
supposed to shut off when the engine gets hot but I doubt it works
properly after all these years). Anyway, the intake manifold is
stacked on the exhaust because 1) the exhaust manifold heats the
intake to offset the evaporative cooling effect and 2) that's the
only place it can go (unless you have a 'cross-flow' head design,
like on the 100S engine). I can only guess the gasket is there to
somehow modulate the heating effect but, since it's just a damn
gasket there isn't much it can do.<br>
<br>
I'd call Tom Monaco at Tom's Import Toys and ask him. He's a Moss
reseller--at a 10% discount--and may have a (very colorful)
explanation. Otherwise, check around and see if anybody has the
'proper' thick gasket and, if not, you can either pay Moss' ransom
or do without them.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/17/2019 12:04 PM, Harold Manifold
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:414270BAB92141069A90104BF3EB184B@AllInOne">
<meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
http-equiv="Content-Type">
<meta name="GENERATOR" content="MSHTML 11.00.10570.1001">
<div><span class="401304719-17112019"><font size="2"
face="Arial">Hello,</font></span></div>
<div><span class="401304719-17112019"></span> </div>
<div><span class="401304719-17112019"><font size="2" face="Arial">I
need the advise of this esteemed forum once again.I was dry
fitting the exhaust and intake manifold and noted the holes
didn't line up properly on the head side. I used washers as
shims until the holes lined up and ended up with a 0.171"
gap between the two manifolds. See the pictures. The Moss
gasket I have (021-429) is 0.047" thick. It would require
3-4 gaskets to properly fill the gap. Is there another
gasket that is thicker? The BMC part number for the gasket
is AEC950. I seem to remember the original gasket was
thicker but it got destroyed during disassembly. Is this
a case of switching to a non-asbestos modern gasket
material?</font></span></div>
<div><span class="401304719-17112019"></span> </div>
<div><span class="401304719-17112019"><font size="2" face="Arial">One
solution is to use multiple gaskets. Is there a better
solution? Car is a 1960 BT7 Mk1 2 Carb.</font></span></div>
<div><span class="401304719-17112019"></span> </div>
<div><span class="401304719-17112019"><font size="2" face="Arial">Thanks
... Harold</font></span></div>
<div><span class="401304719-17112019"></span> </div>
<div><span class="401304719-17112019"></span> </div>
<div><span class="401304719-17112019"></span> </div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
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