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I have made several out of ash and they work just fine.
The convertible ones would be a little more difficult as they curve in 2
planes but the roadsters are easy.
I use a router mounted in a table to do the rounding.
M
On Sun, Dec 15, 2019, 5:21 PM , <simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
> I=E2=80=99ve thought about it often. Mine=E2=80=99s OK but no more than O=
K. It=E2=80=99s been
> tacked and stapled so often that it looks like it=E2=80=99s had woodworm.
>
> I concluded that, when/if I do it, I=E2=80=99ll make it out of layers of =
marine
> ply. Make all the layers consistently oversize by about 10%, reduce it do=
wn
> a little with a draw knife then finish it off with one of those sand pape=
r
> thingies on a foam rubber roller. (Used in an electric drill. Done outsid=
e
> as the sawdust comes off in clouds!) Those things are brilliant for makin=
g
> compound curves in wood. I first used one when I made my eldest daughter =
a
> large Victorian style rocking horse. Keeping the original close bow to ha=
nd
> and an accurate set of calipers should get a precise end result. Finish o=
ff
> with epoxy and a layer or two of some sort of sealer/preservative.
>
> I=E2=80=99d do it and good luck to you if you do.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *richard
> mayor
> *Sent:* 15 December 2019 21:45
> *To:* healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Wood top bow
>
>
>
> Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a
> new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could
> make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router,
> etc.
>
> I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the
> upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I
> thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x
> 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00.
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<div dir=3D"auto">I have made several out of ash and they work just fine.<d=
iv dir=3D"auto">The convertible ones would be a little more difficult as th=
ey curve in 2 planes but the roadsters are easy.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"aut=
o">I use a router mounted in a table to do the rounding.</div><div dir=3D"a=
uto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M<br><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div></div></d=
iv><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On =
Sun, Dec 15, 2019, 5:21 PM , <<a href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel=
.plus.com">simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><block=
quote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc=
solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-GB" link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954=
F72"><div class=3D"m_-2110853867073645028WordSection1"><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l"><span>I=E2=80=99ve thought about it often. Mine=E2=80=99s OK but no more=
than OK. It=E2=80=99s been tacked and stapled so often that it looks like =
it=E2=80=99s had woodworm.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><=
span>I concluded that, when/if I do it, I=E2=80=99ll make it out of layers =
of marine ply. Make all the layers consistently oversize by about 10%, redu=
ce it down a little with a draw knife then finish it off with one of those =
sand paper thingies on a foam rubber roller. (Used in an electric drill. Do=
ne outside as the sawdust comes off in clouds!) Those things are brilliant =
for making compound curves in wood. I first used one when I made my eldest =
daughter a large Victorian style rocking horse. Keeping the original close =
bow to hand and an accurate set of calipers should get a precise end result=
. Finish off with epoxy and a layer or two of some sort of sealer/preservat=
ive. <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>I=E2=80=99d do i=
t and good luck to you if you do.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal"><span>Simon<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u><=
/u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span lang=3D"EN-US">F=
rom:</span></b><span lang=3D"EN-US"> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-=
bounces@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">healeys-bounce=
s@autox.team.net</a>> <b>On Behalf Of </b>richard mayor<br><b>Sent:</b> =
15 December 2019 21:45<br><b>To:</b> healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@=
autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net=
</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Wood top bow<u></u><u></u></span></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNor=
mal">Has anyone made their own wood top bow?=C2=A0 As I'm getting ready=
to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered i=
f I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw,=
router, etc. <u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I have no=
t yet disassembled the old top.=C2=A0 I was leaving that up to the upholste=
ry shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how=
hard could it be to make one myself?=C2=A0=C2=A0 A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-=
1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00.<u></u><u></u></p></=
div></div></div></div>_______________________________________________<br>
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</blockquote></div>
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