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Jest to confuse issue ... I am fairly sure that the original finish was
actually "Britedip" which is the same finish as was used on GM bus window
frames.
Not sure if that process is still available but I too am looking to get a
set done.
M
On Sat, Dec 28, 2019, 9:46 PM , <sentenac.rw@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sat, 28 Dec 2019 18:45:30 -0800, sentenac.rw@gmail.com wrote:
>
> >Ken,
> >
> >I don't know where you are located, although Jean Caron's response
> >suggests that you might be in Canada. Down here in San Diego County,
> >California there are quite a few shops that are capable of anodizing
> >in the way that you need. They can strip the old anodizing, but they
> >will not sand out gouges, pits and other marks. You need to do that
> >or get another shop to do it for you. Also, you need to specify the
> >type of clear anodizing that you want. Sorry but my 82 year old brain
> >can't come up with the exact specs that I needed two years ago. Type
> >1 sticks in my mind, but no guarantees.
> >
> >I suspect that there are shops that can do the anodizing that you need
> >in most parts of Canada and the USA. You need to know all of the
> >magic specification words, though, and give them the pieces ready for
> >them to anodize.
> >
> >I took #724's pieces to the shop twice. First time for them to strip
> >the old anodizing. Second time after I was sufficiently tired of
> >sanding out the nicks and scratches.
> >
> >There are probably shops that will take your pieces as is. They will
> >cost you a bundle. And if they give your fragile pieces to a trainee
> >at the buffing wheel they can warp, bend and ruin them. Just
> >anodizing is pretty cheap.
> >
> >If I wasn't building a Concours car I would do what Perry did. It
> >probably looks shinier than anodizing and won't wear out.
> >
> >-Roland
> >
> >On Sat, 28 Dec 2019 18:37:37 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >>I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred
> but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone
> on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly
> and or has experience with anyone.
> >>Ken
> >>
> >>Sent from my iPhone
> >>_______________________________________________
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"auto">Jest to confuse issue=C2=A0 ... I=C2=A0 am fairly sure th=
at the original finish was actually "Britedip" which is the same =
finish as was used on GM bus window frames.<div dir=3D"auto">Not sure if th=
at process is still available=C2=A0 but I=C2=A0 too am looking to get a set=
done.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br>=
<div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, De=
c 28, 2019, 9:46 PM , <<a href=3D"mailto:sentenac.rw@gmail.com";>sentenac=
.rw@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" sty=
le=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">On Sat=
, 28 Dec 2019 18:45:30 -0800, <a href=3D"mailto:sentenac.rw@gmail.com"; targ=
et=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">sentenac.rw@gmail.com</a> wrote:<br>
<br>
>Ken,<br>
><br>
>I don't know where you are located, although Jean Caron's respo=
nse<br>
>suggests that you might be in Canada.=C2=A0 Down here in San Diego Coun=
ty,<br>
>California there are quite a few shops that are capable of anodizing<br=
>
>in the way that you need.=C2=A0 They can strip the old anodizing, but t=
hey<br>
>will not sand out gouges, pits and other marks.=C2=A0 You need to do th=
at<br>
>or get another shop to do it for you.=C2=A0 Also, you need to specify t=
he<br>
>type of clear anodizing that you want.=C2=A0 Sorry but my 82 year old b=
rain<br>
>can't come up with the exact specs that I needed two years ago.=C2=
=A0 Type<br>
>1 sticks in my mind, but no guarantees.<br>
><br>
>I suspect that there are shops that can do the anodizing that you need<=
br>
>in most parts of Canada and the USA.=C2=A0 You need to know all of the<=
br>
>magic specification words, though, and give them the pieces ready for<b=
r>
>them to anodize.<br>
><br>
>I took #724's pieces to the shop twice.=C2=A0 First time for them t=
o strip<br>
>the old anodizing.=C2=A0 Second time after I was sufficiently tired of<=
br>
>sanding out the nicks and scratches.<br>
><br>
>There are probably shops that will take your pieces as is.=C2=A0 They w=
ill<br>
>cost you a bundle. And if they give your fragile pieces to a trainee<br=
>
>at the buffing wheel they can warp, bend and ruin them.=C2=A0 Just<br>
>anodizing is pretty cheap.<br>
><br>
>If I wasn't building a Concours car I would do what Perry did.=C2=
=A0 It<br>
>probably looks shinier than anodizing and won't wear out.<br>
><br>
>-Roland<br>
><br>
>On Sat, 28 Dec 2019 18:37:37 -0500, you wrote:<br>
><br>
>>I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundr=
ed but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyo=
ne on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly=
and or has experience with anyone. <br>
>>Ken<br>
>><br>
>>Sent from my iPhone<br>
>>_______________________________________________<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"; rel=3D"noreferre=
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s/michaelsalter@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
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</blockquote></div>
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