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Re: [Healeys] Sealants

To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sealants
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2020 09:11:29 -0400
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <4bf8d2fe-48da-48d2-b379-15c42713e701@me.com> <157f89da-96fb-1c04-f0c3-365d63b98a1b@comcast.net>
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* "I know, we all install gaskets thinking "Well, I'll never have to do
THAT again." If only that was true*."
Never happened to me ... =F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3

On Sun., May 31, 2020, 1:22 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Right up there with 'which oil to use.'
>
> I've experimented with many of the modern sealants. I'd be careful with
> Right Stuff; my mechanic did as you intend--using grey RS with no gasket =
on
> my BJ8's oil pan--and when I cracked the pan and tried to remove it I hur=
t
> my right elbow sawing the pan off with a serrated kitchen knife (that was=
 a
> couple years ago, and the elbow is still sore). When I told my mechanic
> about this, he said: "Well, you weren't supposed to remove the pan," but,
> shit happens. There are two types of RS, black and grey, and supposedly t=
he
> grey is for import cars (but damned if I know the difference). There are
> photos and videos on the internets of people who used RS on, for instance=
,
> SBC (Chevy Small Block) intake manifolds and were unable to remove the
> manifolds, going so far as to lift the engine by the manifold (the RS hel=
d).
>
> Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket--#3, IIRC--is a good all-around sealant.
> It seals well, and usually dries to a glaze that makes it easy(er) to
> remove the gasket, often intact. I used it on gaskets on my gearbox/OD
> rebuild, and they're sealed nicely, except for the critical OD body to
> tailcone--'annulus housing?'--surface, which is not supposed to have a
> gasket (unless it's accounted-for in setting the depth of the annulus
> gears). I used Permatex Black Silicone 'Adhesive Sealant' there and, so
> far, no leaks. I just used the same stuff on the thermostat housing and
> water pump on my '55 T-Bird--with paper gaskets--and expect it to work
> well. Note if the label says 'adhesive,' it should help positioning and
> holding a gasket, but may be more difficult to remove later* (the T-Bird'=
s
> manual says specifically to use a sealant on the gaskets, but many manual=
s
> say otherwise). The blue silicones are not very adhesive, if at all; I us=
e
> 3M 'yellow snot' to glue valve cover gaskets to the cover, then run a thi=
n
> bead of blue on the engine side. Side note: the advantage of the F-a-G is
> that it's tacky, and isn't likely to have chunks break off and plug
> important--read: oil--passageways. There was a guy on the web who went in=
to
> a detailed analysis of this risk, but I believe if you use it judiciously=
,
> and sparingly, it's OK. I have a silicone valve cover gasket for my BJ8,
> but haven't been adventurous enough to try it.
>
> Steven, I'd recommend against using RS on your tappet covers unless, of
> course, you are absolutely sure you will not need to remove them in this
> lifetime. I'd use the cork gaskets with a silicone or F-a-G; in my
> experience it's harder to get the bolt holes sealed-up than the covers (a=
s
> long as they're straight), but copper washers with silicone works
> reasonably well. There are a type of flat washer that has a rubber
> insert--can't recall the name right now--that should work well (if you ca=
n
> find them).
>
> * I know, we all install gaskets thinking "Well, I'll never have to do
> THAT again." If only that was true.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 5/31/2020 8:51 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote:
>
> When I put my tappet cover back on, I'm going to use "The Right Stuff" an=
d
> no gasket. A simple bead all around the cover, making sure to go around t=
he
> holes for the bolts with a touch of red lock tite on the threads. Also,
> make sure you pre-install every bolt as they are different depths in the
> receiving holes. I thought I had it right, but then I had to move a few
> around to get them to go in the correct amount.
>    I have to do it again, (long story), but this time the engine will be
> out, I will take my time and I am now fore armed with the information. Be=
st
> of luck!
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 on the way to recovery.
>
> On May 31, 2020 at 2:01 AM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
> <rrengineer.mike@att.net> wrote:
>
> Finally got the Denis Welch tappets today after almost an entire month.
> Woohoo.  Now comes the part where I button up this side of the engine.
> Where are the most leaks on this side of the engine?  What should I use o=
n
> the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it?  How about the angle drive?
> Seal that or just crank it down OK?  Once this engine is together I would
> like to not have to take it apart again for leaks.
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;font-size:12.8px"><=
b><i>=C2=A0&quot;I know, we all install gaskets thinking &quot;Well, I&#39;=
ll never have to do THAT again.&quot; If only that was true</i></b>.&quot;=
=C2=A0</span><div dir=3D"auto"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;font-s=
ize:12.8px">Never happened to me ... =F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3</=
span></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_attr">On Sun., May 31, 2020, 1:22 p.m. Bob Spidell, &lt;<a href=3D"mai=
lto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blo=
ckquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #c=
cc solid;padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    Right up there with &#39;which oil to use.&#39;<br>
    <br>
    I&#39;ve experimented with many of the modern sealants. I&#39;d be care=
ful
    with Right Stuff; my mechanic did as you intend--using grey RS with
    no gasket on my BJ8&#39;s oil pan--and when I cracked the pan and tried
    to remove it I hurt my right elbow sawing the pan off with a
    serrated kitchen knife (that was a couple years ago, and the elbow
    is still sore). When I told my mechanic about this, he said: &quot;Well=
,
    you weren&#39;t supposed to remove the pan,&quot; but, shit happens. Th=
ere
    are two types of RS, black and grey, and supposedly the grey is for
    import cars (but damned if I know the difference). There are photos
    and videos on the internets of people who used RS on, for instance,
    SBC (Chevy Small Block) intake manifolds and were unable to remove
    the manifolds, going so far as to lift the engine by the manifold
    (the RS held).<br>
    <br>
    Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket--#3, IIRC--is a good all-around
    sealant. It seals well, and usually dries to a glaze that makes it
    easy(er) to remove the gasket, often intact. I used it on gaskets on
    my gearbox/OD rebuild, and they&#39;re sealed nicely, except for the
    critical OD body to tailcone--&#39;annulus housing?&#39;--surface, whic=
h is
    not supposed to have a gasket (unless it&#39;s accounted-for in setting
    the depth of the annulus gears). I used Permatex Black Silicone
    &#39;Adhesive Sealant&#39; there and, so far, no leaks. I just used the=
 same
    stuff on the thermostat housing and water pump on my &#39;55
    T-Bird--with paper gaskets--and expect it to work well. Note if the
    label says &#39;adhesive,&#39; it should help positioning and holding a
    gasket, but may be more difficult to remove later* (the T-Bird&#39;s
    manual says specifically to use a sealant on the gaskets, but many
    manuals say otherwise). The blue silicones are not very adhesive, if
    at all; I use 3M &#39;yellow snot&#39; to glue valve cover gaskets to t=
he
    cover, then run a thin bead of blue on the engine side. Side note:
    the advantage of the F-a-G is that it&#39;s tacky, and isn&#39;t likely=
 to
    have chunks break off and plug important--read: oil--passageways.
    There was a guy on the web who went into a detailed analysis of this
    risk, but I believe if you use it judiciously, and sparingly, it&#39;s
    OK. I have a silicone valve cover gasket for my BJ8, but haven&#39;t
    been adventurous enough to try it.<br>
    <br>
    Steven, I&#39;d recommend against using RS on your tappet covers unless=
,
    of course, you are absolutely sure you will not need to remove them
    in this lifetime. I&#39;d use the cork gaskets with a silicone or F-a-G=
;
    in my experience it&#39;s harder to get the bolt holes sealed-up than
    the covers (as long as they&#39;re straight), but copper washers with
    silicone works reasonably well. There are a type of flat washer that
    has a rubber insert--can&#39;t recall the name right now--that should
    work well (if you can find them).<br>
    <br>
    * I know, we all install gaskets thinking &quot;Well, I&#39;ll never ha=
ve to
    do THAT again.&quot; If only that was true.<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 5/31/2020 8:51 AM, Steven Kingsbury
      via Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div>When I put my tappet cover back on, I&#39;m going to use &quot;T=
he
        Right Stuff&quot; and no gasket. A simple bead all around the cover=
,
        making sure to go around the holes for the bolts with a touch of
        red lock tite on the threads. Also, make sure you pre-install
        every bolt as they are different depths in the receiving holes.
        I thought I had it right, but then I had to move a few around to
        get them to go in the correct amount.=C2=A0</div>
      <div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0I have to do it again, (long story), but this =
time the
        engine will be out, I will take my time and I am now fore armed
        with the information. Best of luck!=C2=A0</div>
      <div>Steven Kingsbury</div>
      <div>BN1 on the way to recovery.</div>
      <div><br>
        On May 31, 2020 at 2:01 AM, Michael MacLean
        <a href=3D"mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D=
"noreferrer">&lt;rrengineer.mike@att.net&gt;</a> wrote:<br>
        <br>
      </div>
      <div>
        <blockquote type=3D"cite">
          <div>Finally got the Denis Welch tappets
            today after almost an entire month.=C2=A0 Woohoo.=C2=A0 Now com=
es the
            part where I button up this side of the engine.=C2=A0 Where are
            the most leaks on this side of the engine?=C2=A0 What should I
            use on the gasket for the tappet cover to seal it?=C2=A0 How
            about the angle drive?=C2=A0 Seal that or just crank it down OK=
?=C2=A0
            Once this engine is together I would like to not have to
            take it apart again for leaks.
            <div id=3D"m_-4607614093043390601yMail_cursorElementTracker_159=
0898312612">Mike
              MacLean
              <div><br>
              </div>
              <br>
              <br>
              <div id=3D"m_-4607614093043390601yMail_cursorElementTracker_1=
590898262089"><br>
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