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Bob,
Thanks for the pointer to the BCF discussion. For anyone who's
interested, here's a link to the discussion from two years ago:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/battery-fuse-protection.115642/
It's a long thread, and worth the read for points both philosophical and
practical.
- Tom
On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 11:59 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> I'll bite: I think you'd need a 'slow blow' fuse, like on the OD for
> instance. I usually buy batteries with the most CCA--cold cranking power,
> more current is available at higher temps--I can find/fit; some have 600A
> or more CCA (IIRC, the AGM in my BJ8 has over 700). An inductive load, like
> a motor or solenoid, pulls almost all current available for a split second,
> until inductance increases impedance. You might very well blow this fuse
> every time you try to start your car.
>
> There was an exhaustive discussion on this on the BCF; IIRC the conclusion
> was a fairly complex breaker system would work best. The simpler answer is
> to just make sure your cabling is in good nick; a lot of damage can happen
> even before a fuse blows. To my knowledge, most/all modern cars have no
> protection on starter systems either.
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/11/2021 8:14 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
>
> At the Monday evening Tech Call in hosted by the AHCA New
> England chapter, one caller recounted the story of the hot wire from the
> battery to the the starter grounding out against the chassis, the
> insulation worn out from decades of chaffing. Needless to say, lots of
> smoke and heat were generated.
>
> After 50+ years of use, it's surprising we don't hear more stories like
> this. Is there a reason we shouldn't add a fuse? Fuses like this style
> 500A
> fuse
> <https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-ANL-500A-Electrical-Protection-Holder/dp/B072PCPN1Q/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=500A+fuse&qid=1615478836&sr=8-4>
> range
> from 30A to 600A. That seems like enough power to run the starter and
> still provide protection against direct short damage.
>
> What does everyone think?
>
> - Tom
>
>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob,<div><br></div><div>Thanks for the pointer to the BCF =
discussion.=C2=A0 =C2=A0For anyone who's interested,=C2=A0 here's a=
link to the discussion from two years ago:=C2=A0=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://w=
ww.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/battery-fuse-protection.115642/">h=
ttps://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/battery-fuse-protection.11=
5642/</a>=C2=A0 =C2=A0It's a long thread, and worth the read for points=
both philosophical and practical.</div><div><br></div><div>- Tom</div></di=
v><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On T=
hu, Mar 11, 2021 at 11:59 AM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@com=
cast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D=
"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(2=
04,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
I'll bite: I think you'd need a 'slow blow' fuse, like =
on the OD for
instance. I usually buy batteries with the most CCA--cold cranking
power, more current is available at higher temps--I can find/fit;
some have 600A or more CCA (IIRC, the AGM in my BJ8 has over 700).
An inductive load, like a motor or solenoid, pulls almost all
current available for a split second, until inductance increases
impedance. You might very well blow this fuse every time you try to
start your car.<br>
<br>
There was an exhaustive discussion on this on the BCF; IIRC the
conclusion was a fairly complex breaker system would work best. The
simpler answer is to just make sure your cabling is in good nick; a
lot of damage can happen even before a fuse blows. To my knowledge,
most/all modern cars have no protection on starter systems either.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div>On 3/11/2021 8:14 AM, Tom via Healeys
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div dir=3D"ltr">At the Monday evening Tech Call in hosted by the=C2=
=A0
AHCA New England=C2=A0chapter, one caller recounted the story of th=
e
hot wire from the battery to the the starter grounding out
against the chassis, the insulation worn out from decades of
chaffing.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Needless to say, lots of smoke and heat were
generated.=C2=A0
<div><br>
</div>
<div>After 50+ years of use, it's surprising we don't hear =
more
stories like this.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Is there a reason we shouldn't=
add a
fuse?=C2=A0 =C2=A0Fuses like this style=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://w=
ww.amazon.com/Baomain-ANL-500A-Electrical-Protection-Holder/dp/B072PCPN1Q/r=
ef=3Dsr_1_4?dchild=3D1&keywords=3D500A+fuse&qid=3D1615478836&sr=
=3D8-4" target=3D"_blank">500A fuse</a>=C2=A0range from 30A to
600A.=C2=A0 =C2=A0That seems like enough power to run the starter=
and
still provide protection against direct short damage.=C2=A0=C2=A0=
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>What does everyone think?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>- Tom</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
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</blockquote></div>
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