This is a multipart message in MIME format.
--===============1390258852224645207==
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0053_01D7BA88.B1B92B20"
Content-Language: en-ca
This is a multipart message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0053_01D7BA88.B1B92B20
charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Simon, that does not sound bad to me. It is hard to actually determine =
how far the clutch pedal depresses (i.e., half way) so it may not be =
quite in the last =C2=BC of travel. If the clutch arm starts to move =
once you have taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all is OK. =
I assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the master =
cylinder pushrod is in good shape =E2=80=93 these do wear and I have =
replaced mine several times. When they are worn you can have a fair bit =
of clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken up. Solution is easy =
and cheap =E2=80=93 replace the cotter pin.
=20
I still have my g=E2=80=99box cover off, so I slipped out and checked =
mine. My clutch arm does start to move once I have taken the slack out =
of the pedal and moves a total of 5/8=E2=80=9D, which I measured at the =
centre cotter pin that goes through the clutch arm. I estimated that =
the clutch disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand =
when the clutch is about 5/8 depressed. Probably not =C2=BE depressed =
as you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is hard to estimate.
=20
Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not empirical knowledge!) =
consider that you have a new clutch disk and perhaps you re-faced the =
flywheel, or may have =E2=80=9Croughed it up=E2=80=9D with some emery to =
remove any glazing. Regardless if you did the latter or not, the two =
surfaces (clutch disk to flywheel) have not bedded in and so will have =
to be fully disengaged to turn the flange by hand. With a bit of use, =
after bedding in, they will disengage a little more readily and you may =
find that you do not have to use so much clutch pedal. I imagine this =
will not be a big difference, but just slight. This is much the same as =
drum brakes, which, after new shoes have been fitted, should be =
re-adjusted after a few hundred miles to take up clearance from bedding =
in. Of course the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that clearance =
automatically. I think that is sound thinking, and I am confident if it =
isn=E2=80=99t someone will tell me =F0=9F=98=8A.
=20
Bottom line, if the clutch is disengaging at =C2=BE depression of the =
pedal sufficiently that you can turn the flange by hand, AND if the =
clutch arm begins to move once the slack is taken up in the clutch =
pedal, I=E2=80=99d say you are OK.
=20
Let us know how it goes.
=20
Mirek
=20
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Simon =
Lachlan via Healeys
Sent: October 5, 2021 11:16 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch
=20
Hi,
I=E2=80=99ve been engaged on other things until recently. However, the =
clutch continues to be an issue.
We got the gearbox back in OK. Wouldn=E2=80=99t budge until we changed =
engine=E2=80=99s angle, then it slotted in.
With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think and hope, =
determined that the clutch itself can work=E2=80=A6..
=20
With the car in 4th and drive shaft disconnected I depressed the clutch =
pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was well able to watch the =
slave.
I got about =C2=BD=E2=80=9D to =C2=BE=E2=80=9D total movement of the =
slave cylinder=E2=80=99s push rod at which point =E2=80=93 pedal =
depressed to the floor =E2=80=93 the clutch was released ie I could turn =
the flange that couples to the driveshaft by hand. =C2=BD=E2=80=9D =
depression=E2=80=A6..no movement of the flange. ie everything in the =
last =C2=BC=E2=80=9D.
That=E2=80=99s got to be hydraulics???
I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into master with =
the slave. But I=E2=80=99m not optimistic as I=E2=80=99ve tried bleeding =
several times.=20
My clutch master cylinder has been in the car since I=E2=80=99ve owned =
it. +/- 25 years. Am tempted to replace it but hate throwing parts at a =
problem. Good idea?
Another thing=E2=80=A6..I do confess to never having changed the fluid =
100%. I always push a load through and out when I have to bleed the =
brakes but that=E2=80=99s mercifully seldom.=20
Any comments=E2=80=A6.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 =E2=80=9C travel???
Simon
=20
------=_NextPart_000_0053_01D7BA88.B1B92B20
charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" =
xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" =
xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml"; =
xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40";><head><meta =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta =
name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 (filtered =
medium)"><style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Calibri;
panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{margin:0cm;
font-size:11.0pt;
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
mso-fareast-language:EN-US;}
span.EmailStyle19
{mso-style-type:personal-reply;
font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
color:windowtext;}
.MsoChpDefault
{mso-style-type:export-only;
font-size:10.0pt;}
@page WordSection1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}
div.WordSection1
{page:WordSection1;}
--></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-CA =
link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72" style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Simon,=C2=A0 that does not =
sound bad to me.=C2=A0 It is hard to actually determine how far the =
clutch pedal depresses (i.e., half way) so it may not be quite in the =
last =C2=BC of travel.=C2=A0 If the clutch arm starts to move once you =
have taken up the slack in the pedal, then I think all is OK.=C2=A0 I =
assume the cotter pin that secures the pedal arm to the master cylinder =
pushrod is in good shape =E2=80=93 these do wear and I have replaced =
mine several times.=C2=A0 When they are worn you can have a fair bit of =
clutch pedal movement before the slack is taken up.=C2=A0 Solution is =
easy and cheap =E2=80=93 replace the cotter pin.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I still have =
my g=E2=80=99box cover off, so I slipped out and checked mine.=C2=A0 My =
clutch arm does start to move once I have taken the slack out of the =
pedal and moves a total of 5/8=E2=80=9D, which I measured at the centre =
cotter pin that goes through the clutch arm.=C2=A0 I estimated that the =
clutch disengages enough that I can turn the output flange by hand when =
the clutch is about 5/8 depressed.=C2=A0 Probably not =C2=BE depressed =
as you suggest yours is, but that, as I said, is hard to =
estimate.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Thinking about it (i.e., this is theory not empirical =
knowledge!) consider that you have a new clutch disk and perhaps you =
re-faced the flywheel, or may have =E2=80=9Croughed it up=E2=80=9D with =
some emery to remove any glazing.=C2=A0 Regardless if you did the latter =
or not, the two surfaces (clutch disk to flywheel) have not bedded in =
and so will have to be fully disengaged to turn the flange by =
hand.=C2=A0 With a bit of use, after bedding in,=C2=A0 they will =
disengage a little more readily and you may find that you do not have to =
use so much clutch pedal.=C2=A0 I imagine this will not be a big =
difference, but just slight.=C2=A0 This is much the same as drum brakes, =
which, after new shoes have been fitted, should be re-adjusted after a =
few hundred miles to take up clearance from bedding in.=C2=A0 Of course =
the clutch (and disk brakes) take up that clearance automatically.=C2=A0 =
I think that is sound thinking, and I am confident if it isn=E2=80=99t =
someone will tell me <span style=3D'font-family:"Segoe UI =
Emoji",sans-serif'>😊</span>.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Bottom line, =
if the clutch is disengaging at =C2=BE depression of the pedal =
sufficiently that you can turn the flange by hand, AND if the clutch arm =
begins to move once the slack is taken up in the clutch pedal, =
I=E2=80=99d say you are OK.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Let us know =
how it goes.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Mirek<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-CA'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-CA'> Healeys =
<healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan =
via Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> October 5, 2021 11:16 AM<br><b>To:</b> =
'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net><br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] =
Clutch<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Hi,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>I=E2=80=99ve been engaged on other things until recently. =
However, the clutch continues to be an issue.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>We got the gearbox back in OK. =
Wouldn=E2=80=99t budge until we changed engine=E2=80=99s angle, then it =
slotted in.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>With the aid of an old email of Michaels I have, I think =
and hope, determined that the clutch itself can =
work=E2=80=A6..<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>With the car in 4<sup>th</sup> and drive shaft disconnected =
I depressed the clutch pedal by hand. With the tunnel cover off I was =
well able to watch the slave.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>I got about =C2=BD=E2=80=9D to =
=C2=BE=E2=80=9D total movement of the slave cylinder=E2=80=99s push rod =
at which point =E2=80=93 pedal depressed to the floor =E2=80=93 the =
clutch was released ie I could turn the flange that couples to the =
driveshaft by hand. =C2=BD=E2=80=9D depression=E2=80=A6..no movement of =
the flange. ie everything in the last =
=C2=BC=E2=80=9D.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>That=E2=80=99s got to be =
hydraulics???<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>I=E2=80=99ll bleed it again, maybe pushing backwards into =
master with the slave. But I=E2=80=99m not optimistic as I=E2=80=99ve =
tried bleeding several times. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>My clutch master cylinder has been =
in the car since I=E2=80=99ve owned it. +/- 25 years. Am tempted to =
replace it but hate throwing parts at a problem. Good =
idea?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Another thing=E2=80=A6..I do confess to never having =
changed the fluid 100%. I always push a load through and out when I have =
to bleed the brakes but that=E2=80=99s mercifully seldom. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB>Any =
comments=E2=80=A6.particularly re the 1/2 to 3/4 =E2=80=9C =
travel???<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_0053_01D7BA88.B1B92B20--
--===============1390258852224645207==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
--===============1390258852224645207==--
|