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Re: Selection of high build primer

To: <DB35PA@aol.com>, <mg-mmm@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Selection of high build primer
From: "tom metcalf" <mgtom@bright.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2004 18:43:53 -0400
References: <1d3.24c85d8e.2e12e075@aol.com>
Reply-to: "tom metcalf" <mgtom@bright.net>
Sender: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Don,

I FINALLY got to the PO today with your box. It's on its way!

The bonnet boards should be the LIGHTER of your two reds based on two sets
of originals I have.

The etching primers are thin and I don't think you will have wrinking
issues. Try a small piece and see, Generally, I hate anything in a spray
can, but I THINK the etching primers may be OK.

t


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DB35PA@aol.com>
To: <mg-mmm@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2004 11:10 AM
Subject: Selection of high build primer


> Painting issues
>
> I have been recently warned NOT to use spray can high build primers. The
> advice also adds I MUST use only two part epoxy filling primers, or
subsequent
> paints will fail.
>
> Unfortunately, I have already used SEM self  etching and Dupli-Color High
> build  sprays on smaller parts such as front apron, running boards, petrol
tank,
> and a  whole host of little bits.
>
> I have been priming parts all along to prevent surface rust from forming
as
> I must work in unheated garage and cannot control the relative humidity. I
had
>  already experienced some raw, untreated steel parts showing surface rust
in
> as  little as 2 weeks.
>
> While I can certainly switch on larger parts like wings, body, bonnet
(after
> I construct a spray booth in the garage), must I remove all previous
primers
> and re-prime?
>
> What has been the groups' experiences?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don B.
> PA 1823
>
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