Scott,
The 'O' rings for the jet seals are a Parker P/N 2-010. That said, DO
NOT go to NAPA or wherever and just get plain nitrile 'O' rings (also
know as bauna N), as they will swell and you will not be able to pull
the choke out to get the car started. You will need, at least Viton
'O' rings. These are used in air conditioning systems and you might be
able to find the right size at a HVAC shop. The other place to get them
is MSC Industrial Supply at: http://www.mscdirect.com/ or McMaster/Carr,
but you may have to order them in quantity at either of these places.
Even with the viton 'O' rings, things will get sticky unless the rings
are lubricated. Silglide will work, but it washes off after a period of
time. One of our members found that Dow Corning 3452 lubricant worked
well, but I don't know where to get that. A better solution, I have
found is to use teflon 'O' rings that are available from Tom Bryant at
207-443-6338, you will need two of these 'O' rings at each position and
Bob Howard's recommendation to replace the dished washers would be a
good idea when these rings are installed. If you use the teflon 'O'
rings, all burrs and rough spots on the he jets must be polished out and
all sharp edges (around the top edge and the cross drilled hole) need to
be relieved so that the teflon is not cut during installation. I
installed the teflon 'O' rings in our TD some 10 or 12 years ago and
have not had any leaks since.
Keep in mind that the jet seals are not the only place at the bottom of
the carbs that can leak. The seal around the large jet nut is another
place that I have had problems getting to seal properly. I went to a
Parker 2-211 'O' ring for this seal and have not had any leaks since.
This is a place that you can use the nitrile or bauna N 'O' rings in
because there is no movement anywhere after this has been installed and
the only time that swelling will occur is if you disassemble that nut,
in which case the 'O' ring should be replaced anyway. This 'O' ring
should be lubricated with Silglide when installing.
One other place that a leak can develop and be mistaken for a jet seal
leak is the square head screw that holds the linkage fork to the bottom
of the jet. This screw often leaks and I have cured it by running
solder around the base of the fork and the head of the screw. A much
easier way to get this screw to stop leaking is to take it out, clean
the threads, both on the screw and in the jet and apply some Lock-Tite
to it. Be careful when removing and replacing the screw that you don't
damage the sides of the jet while holding it to remove the screw.
Good luck,
Dave
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