Hi Rocky,
Been reading the installments with interest. Good going on getting to
where you're at with the TD. I trust you have some kind of manual to see
pictures of the carburetor.
The damper rods' pistons must be covered with oil, that's the important
thing. If you overfill, the worst that will happen is a short period of
smoke as the excess is sucked in and burned. I just use a squirt oil can
and
add to a little less than the top of the bore, and a few drops spill over.
The thickness of the oil is important in the amount of damping of the
piston
assembly. Too thin an oil could result in hesitation. 10-40 will probably
be
OK, though different folks have different preferences, depending on the
fine
tuning of the car. Some use ATF (which is thinner) or straight 30 weight.
Having oil (other than gear oil!!) in the dashpot is certainly better than
none, the weight can be varied to suit.
To remove the oil is simple. [Keep everything nice and clean.]
* Unscrew and remove the top cap and damper rod/piston.
* Unscrew and remove the retaining screws for the suction chamber body.
* Pull the suction chamber straight up along the axis of the damper rod. A
small amount of twisting back and forth of the chamber may help get it
started. The main piston should stay in place on the carburetor. (If it
comes with the chamber, no big deal, just gently pull it out by hand.)
* Gently pull straight up on the carb piston until free, knowing that there
is a "long" brass needle that must also come free. Do not bend, scratch or
otherwise abuse the needle or John Twist will beat you with a stick. Dump
out the old oil. Add the oil of choice.
A couple of points:
- Don't force anything! The British have an expression of "offering" one
part to another during reassembly. If it doesn't go easily, back up and
look
at it closely and see what must be wrong before trying again.
- A helpful book, out of print, but often available on eBay or Barnes and
Noble used books is Tuning SU Carburetters, Speedsport Motorbooks, ISBN
85113-072-0. Any edition will do, but 3rd edition (1975) goes into later
SUs
with emission controls. There are other SU books out there, get one.
Best luck, and be careful, it's a jungle out there!
Pete Thiel
'53 TD
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