Rocky,
The instructions in the workshop manual and driver handbook are OK,
though if you haven't done it before or seen it done, adjustment of the
carbs seems intimidating. It's not.
You have adjusted for even air flow, you wrote. Good, that's
important.
Unclamp the throttle shaft and check again that air flow is equal at,
say, 700 rpm or so. Leave the shaft loose, for now.
Remove one end of the bar that connects the jet adjusting levers
(choke device). There should be no pull on the clevis pin. With the jet
head(the brass piece of the jet that protrudes through the adjusting nut)
pushed up firmlyagainst the two carb bodies, fit the bar again. If the
clevis does not slip in and out easily, adjust the length of the bar so
that the pin does slip in and out easily. Tighten the locknut Once this
has been done, you won't ever have to do it again until the carbs are
removed some time in the future.
The book talks about centreing the jet. Chances are that this was
well done when the carbs were reworked, but it's easy to check. You have
the air cleaner manifold off already, so stick your finger into the
opening and lift the piston. Let it drop. It should bottom with an
audible click. If it does, all is well. If it does not click, then the
needle is binding in the jet and centreing will be needed. Not likely,
though. Write back if you need to centre the jet.
All the hard work is done at this point.
With engine running, near operating temp, mixture enrichment (choke)
completely off and some slack in the wire, you're ready to adjust carbs.
Using a long thin screwdriver, narrow blade is easiest, lift the
piston 1/32" (ws manual) to 1/8" (everyone else) as you listen carefully
to engine sound. If engine speed drops, you know mixture is lean. If it
rises and stays faster, you know it's too rich. (From your message, it's
too lean.) To adjust the mix richer, you screw down the brass jet
adjusting nut. There's a neat little wrench for this, but fingers work
great. Turn the brass nut down one flat. Test again by lifting the
piston. Better? Down another flat. Worse? Up two flats (back to where
you were, and up one more). After you have moved one carb's adjuster
three or four flats, go work on the other carb, doing same thing.
Keep in mind that engine speed may be rising as you do this. Check
that the SUs are still synchronised.
Back and forth, from one to the other carb a few times, lifting,
listening, adjusting accordingly. What you are after is a momentary
increase in idle speed, followed by a drop.
Once it's to your satisfaction, set the idle to 700-800 or so, double
check synchronisation, and clamp up the throttle shaft.
It's really much quicker to do it than to describe it.
Check the oil level in the dashpots. install air cleaner. Go driving.
Once you have 50 miles or so of safety fast motoring, you can inspect the
sparkplugs back at home. They should have an even grey-tan color. This
varies with the particular fuel that is in the tank, but what you don't
want to see is light-grey/white, or black sooty stuff. If you see white
on two or four plugs, adjust the mix down a flat or two on corresponding
carb, and if it's black, lean the mix by turning the nut upward a couple
of flats.
Bob
On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 20:56:03 -0400 "KRISLYN COMPANY"
<KRISLYNCO.LLC@roadrunner.com> writes:
> My e mail has been a little touchy so if messages have bounced back
> to you
> ..please try me again...
>
> Thanks for all the replies regarding the hesitation ...I intend to
> check the
> oil level in the carb dampers to see if we can get her running
> right. that
> seemed to be the general concensus among all replies.
>
> A couple of members asked if I had checked the carb settings for
> rich/lean
> etc.. would love any help with instructions on that issue...
>
> Also regarding the front seal leak... i used (for the fourth time)
> the Moss
> Seal as the new round "Timkin" brand and set it in high heat grey
> silicone as
> it fits the crank end snugly but fits very poorly in the channell
> "sit". Any
> thoughts on the leak here.
>
> Thanks again and again....
> Rocky
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Mg-t@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|