Re: wandering-
Check the toe-in as others have said. Also, another MGB "loose"
point to check are the bolts that hold the lower A-arm pivot
to the crossmember. These *do* rattle loose. I've changed mine
to aircraft grade bolts and nylock nuts, and I still check 'em
every few events.
Re: handling mods-
I've got the Hopkinson handling kit on my 'B, a '75 with stiff
lowered front springs and lowering blocks on the back. I have stock
shocks on the rear. Front bushings are V-8 lower, nylatron upper,
urethane sway bar. Rear bushings are stock front, nylatron rear,
nylatron spring locating pads (do this one people!), rubber sway
bar.
I agree, a softer rear on a 'B is a good thing
(also has been mentioned in books on Spridgets). The only times
I've had the rear go out from underneath me were 1) a bit too
much trail-braking, and 2) running *hard* in the rain through
a decreasing radius sweeper (it was my last run of the day!).
My 'B sits a couple of inches lower than a stock RBB. My only complaint:
I haven't taken the time to engineer/fix the bump-steer caused by lowering
the car. It can be a bit "nervous" on rough roads. I'm also running
a lot of negative camber (lowering plus the neg camber a-arms).
The car turns in like a go-cart. Well, I've got another complaint, but
that's a question of when I'm going to get serious and invest in some
R tyres!
I'm following Jim Stuart's advice and will be installing a wire-wheel
rear axle with bolt on hubs to make room for my ex-Z car wheels with
Yoko A509 205/60-14s.
I'm currently in the process of putting together a 3.5 litre with
"federal" injection. My hotwire 3.9 is going to the background so
I can build it right. (and collect more hotwire parts!) I've got
all of the federal injection system, and a decent 3.5 block.
How's everyone else projects?
-Keith Wheeler
Team Sanctuary http://www.teamsanctuary.com/
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