All these engines had spin-on filters originally--what kind of
adaptor are you talking about? Do you mean the angled one from a V6? Or
maybe a remote filter adaptor? How about that as a possibility? It would
just give you hoses leading to a remote (convenient) location for the
filter. Would that eliminate your interference problem?
The small nipple in the one rocker cover is indeed for the positive
crankcase ventilation system. Ideally a PCV valve should be connected here
and hose routed from it to the base of the carburetor. IMPORTANT!! The
connection has to be directly into the intake manifold, underneath the
throttle butterflies in the carburetor, at all times, whether they are open
or closed. These systems work on manifold vacuum, not venturi vacuum. If
you don't do the PCV, then you will need to rig up some sort of "Road
Draft" system attached to the same nipple. One way or the other, some
suction has to be applied to the crankcase to pull out the oil vapors and
moisture condensation and blowby gasses. Fresh air then is drawn through
your breather cap on the other rocker cover, continuously entering the
crankcase. Charcoal cannisters are only used as part of the evaporative
emission control system, which didn't exist in 1961-1963. Any cannister
you have in the car should either be left disconnected, or you should learn
about evaporative systems and figure out how to adapt it. I do not know
any details of these systems.
I'm not familiar with the"timed" and "not timed" terminology for
the distributor vacuum advance line connections on the carburetor. I do
know you need to use the one which is blocked from intake manifold exposure
by the edge of the throttle plates when the engine is idling. That way
there is no advance (neither centrifugal nor vacuum) at idle, except
whatever you set with the timing light. Then, as the throttle plates open,
this port is gradually exposed more and more to intake manifold vacuum and
responds by increasing advance when vacuum is high and reducing advance
when vacuum is low. This is the way the original stock setup operated. I
assume you are using an original type distributor with the Pertronix
conversion. The distributor is still in control of all timing
functions--all the electronic conversion accomplishes is to eliminate the
points and, hopefully, give a stronger spark voltage at a high engine
speeds than the stock system.
Hope this does not muddy the waters too much.
>Well, for those who have been following the conversion, I really hope to be
>done this weekend. I'm taking the first few days of next week off, so I can
>get her back on the road again. I'm sure you'll probably get bombarded with
>questions this weekend, as I try to wrap up the little details. But think,
>you'll only have to answer them for a couple of more weeks. I've taken some
>pretty good pics along the way, I hope to have these up on the net whenever I
>1. Radiator hose routing. This part is kicking my butt. I made up a
>radiator hose with the advice of some of the list members using two radiator
>hoses and a length of SS pipe and this worked fine. But (there is always a
>but), when I installed the spin on oil filter adapter, I don't have room for
>the hose anymore. I can't see anyway to get the lower radiator hose up to
>the waterpump. I'm currently using the Mustang / Falcon radiator with both
>ports on passenger side. Even if I relocate the lower outlet to the drivers
>side I can't see how I'm going get a hose between the belts and the radiator.
> The only way I see to do this is to actually go around the front crossmember
>or put another hole in the inner fender. I'm using non-ac mounts, CB
>crossmember, alternator mounted in front of drivers side head. Any
>2. Emmissions stuff. I'm using standard buick valve covers. In one cover
>I've put a standard chrome breather. On the other cover there is a 1/2 ID
>nipple protruding. What do I put in here? Do I put a PCV valve in it and
>then run that to the charcoal canister?
>3. In glancing over the Edelbrock literature, there seem to be two vacuum
>ports on the front of the carb (timed and not timed?). Which one do I run to
>the distributor (I'm using Pextronics EI)?
>4. I know I asked this question before, but I need some more help. How do I
>go from the 1/4" clutch tubing to the HTOB SS flex hose? D&D supplied a gold
>colored nipple (male to male) that screws in to the end of the flex hose, but
>this is chamfered on both ends, presumably to seal up against the fitting in
>the hose. I have access to a wide range of tubing fittings, but can't find
>any that have a female counterpart to the chamfered fitting I was supplied.
>I've got a JEG's and a Swagelock (a very large supplier of tubing fittings)
>catalog, and still can't seem to find what I think I need. All I can find is
>tubing to NPT adapters.
>Okay, that is enough questions for now. Thanks for all the help.
>Glenn's words of wisdom for the day. Install the spin on oil filter adapter
>and the gears of the oil pump BEFORE installing the engine and steering rack.
> Its not a fun task if everything is already in :-)