Hi,
I am in the process now of building my diff. I used a Ford Mustang (5 liter)
limited slip.
Most people probably won't want to do what I am doing but here it is for
what it is worth.
I cut the ford tube short. I then cut the MG tubes each at 11" from the edge
of the bearing housing. The Ford tubes are seemed tubing so you have to use
a die grinder or Dremel tool to grind away the lump inside along the weld
seam. The MG tubes are seamless and with just a little work will just slide
into the Ford tubes. First I drilled four large holes in a staggered pattern
in the Ford tube to weld through. I forced the MG tubes about 4 " into the
Ford tubes. by clamping straight rods across the bolt pattern of the MG
bearing flange and one across the pinion flange I was able to align the
tubes. welding in the 4 holes on each side and 360 deg around the end of the
Ford tube, I ended up with a bolt in rear end. My first thoughts were to
make a sleve and weld the Ford axle splined end to the MG outer axles so I
could use the MG bearing, seal brakes etc. but I decided to use the ford
axles. so I sent them to IN and had them cut down and resplined. $85.00 +
shipping. I now have to find a roller bearing that will come close to the
size of the MG bearing. The deaign of the Ford limited slip uses some of the
side load of the axle to decrease the slip of the inside wheel in a turn
along with spring pressure from the limited slip unit. Even though the Ford
axle can be cut down to the size of the MG ball bearing, there is no axial
movement in a ball bearing and you should not leave the inner race loose on
the shaft. I didn't want to use the Ford outer bearing system because the
bearings ran on the axle and each time I ware out an axle bearing I would
have to have another set cut and resplined. Anyone interested in this type
of rear end can watch my progress as I am documenting it on my web site as I
proceed. http://hmfinc.home.mindspring.com
sorry my 2 cents were so long.
Howard
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