Cut off the arm as short as possible, marking which side is the driver's
side/passenger side. You have several choices of what arm to use, I chose a
slightly curved early B lever. Before doing ant welding, carefully take the
shifter apart, as there are some plastic pieces inside that do not tolerate the
heat from welding. Weld a spacer onto the side of the stub arm that is thick
enough to center the arm in the hole, then weld the new arm to the spacer. Now
your shifter will work with the stock console.
The same thing can be done with the aftermarket shifters, such as the B & M.
These have a bolt on arm, which is too long. By the way, get the shifter for the
S-10, not the Camero or the lever will be crooked to the side. Cut off the arm,
drill new holes. use the part cut off to make a spacer. Use grade 8 hardware.
The aftermarket shifters will not be a perfect fit in your console as they are
wider, front to back that the rod that is used as a stock lever, so you will
have to open out the console a little. I used a Hurst in my GT, with a Hurst
rectangular boot & surround, & a shifter per part one in my current project 1967
V8 Roadster.
Jim Stuart
Bruce wrote:
> Picked this up from somewhere quite some time ago "The gearshift lever on
> the T5 comes out within 3/4" of the stock location! ( You do have to shorten
> the lever, however, as it's way too tall." As my tranny is now positioned
> and it looks like it's about 3/4 within the stock location (3/4 to wards the
> passengers side) I was wondering if the hole where the gear shift lever has
> to be cut? I plan on look at this tomorrow but just thought some one out
> there might know.
>
> Bruce
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