Glen:
What Jim said. I've started using "Wellseal" which is a non-hardening
gasket sealer, which seems to work well on cork gaskets. A thin smear on
each side of the surface keps the gasket in place as the pan is offered
up. Do not over-tighten the cork gasket. The ability for the cork to
remain uncrushed is critical for a good seal.
Many new components are glued together, but this is done in a controlled
environment with high quality sealants. I don't recommend it as
removing this sealant during a rebuild is an absolute PITA. Properly
installed gaskets are much easier to deal with. My Dodge truck had a
glued on trans gasket and although it didn't leak, removing it for
service was a 3 hour job.
I noticed that the OE Dodge Truck Auto Trans gasket now comes with steel
spacer washers to prevent mechanics from crushing the replacement cork
gasket.
Just on the off chance. Make sure your oil leaks are not caused by
cracks or pinholes. I'm in the process of cleaning up a good condition
used motor that came out of a dead TR8. It had a small pool of oil
under it after about a week. The drain plug was tight, but after some
careful examination there is a tiny divot in the front of the sump. I'm
guessing it has been there for years, and the leak blamed on a timing
cover or seal.
Kelvin Dodd.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Glenn
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 10:24 PM
To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
Subject: Rover 3.9 Oil Pan Sealing
I'm pulling the engine this weekend to replace the oil
pan gasket to try to fix a couple of the small oil
leaks. I haven't had much luck getting a good seal
when replacing the pan with the engine in the car. I
also want to take a good look at my clutch, so an
engine pull is called for.
What is the current thinking on the best way to get a
good seal on a 3.9 oil pan? Use the cork gasket dry?
Cork gasket with permatex? Permatex only? I have
read that some of the newer Rovers only have Permatex
gaskets.
Thanks!
Glenn
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