On Mon, 13 May 1996, Tom Wagner - Program Manager wrote:
> So here is my problem:
>
> #1 Engine will start and run for a little bit most of the
> time it will cough and spit. I have not been able to
> find the timing marks on the engine in order to set the
> timing. Not sure if that has anything to do with it or not.
> Also the jets have been set to the normal 2 turns down
> from the top.
>
> So the question is: do I set the timing first or try to tune the
> carbs first??? If the answer is to set the timing then, how do
> I find the marks on the case or the timing chain cover to see
> where the TDC mark is or any other mark to set it by???
Set timing to stock value and then tune carbs. You should be within the
ballpark 2 turns from the top unless something else is wrong.
If it is "coughing and spitting" meaning backfiring out the carbs, then
the mixture is too lean. My guess would be an air leak... Manifold to
head, manifold to carb, throttle shafts, and "a big fat hole which used
to be attached to something which is now missing" are my best guesses.
> #2 I attempted to bleed the clutch with the old fashion way of
> getting under the car, and having someone pump the pedal. My
> kids are more than willing todo this. Made sure that the master
> cylinder was full, and then proceeded to have a hose on the bleed
> screw going into a jar with fresh fluid. I did get some air out
> at first but it was short lived, so now what is the nexy step, because
> if we continue to pump on the pedal it never gets to the point of
>feeling
> correct and the slave cylinder never moves any lever on the clutch
>itself.
> Several attempts to pump the pedal, then open the screw in an effort
> to get more air out of the line. NO more air comes out.
You're on the right track, just keep going. It takes about 50% longer
than is reasonable (in other words, like the brake system) to bleed the
clutch.
I replaced the hose to the slave cylinder, and then ran into this
situation. I tried, for a long time, gave up for the day, came back the
next, and after about 3 cycles got movement in the TO bearing. Once it
starts moving, it might be helpful to brace the TO actuating fork so it
doesn't move... with brakes you are pushing the pads against the disks (or
whatever) but with clutch you have much more travel. Slows things down.
John M. Trindle | jtrindle@tsquare.com | Tidewater Sports Car Club
'73 MGB DSP | '69 Spitfire E Stock | '88 RX-7 C Stock
"For people who like peace and quiet: a phoneless cord."
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