Larry Hoy <73253.1136@compuserve.com> writes:
My 1968 MGB has wire wheels, I have identified that the left rear wheel splines,
or hub splines, are worn (probably both!). I get a clunk upon acceleration.
Here's the question, if I am going to have to replace both items is there any
need to do it immediately? (other than the fact I may walk to where I am going
if I don't do it soon enough!) :-) Will waiting cause any other damage?
and Robert Zirpolo <airhedrz@mailhost.iconn.net> writes:
In my front end there is a distinct clunk that I have seen
described here as spline clunk. I have removed both my front wheels,
inspected the splines on both the wheels and hubs and they appear to be
intact. What visual indication could I look for that the wheel is slipping
on the spline and what else could the dreaded clunk be if not this problem?
Most of suspension and shocks are new. any and all opinions welcome.
thanks in advance
Back 10 years as an engineering student (read: no money$$) my 65 b had the
infamous clunk. after a very scary incident when the splines slipped
(brakes stopped the disk fine but the wheel--and therefore car--kept
moving) i resorted to a fix of drilling through the wheel and hub (used a
right angle drill) and installing a 3/8" grade 8 aircraft bolt. on paper
this works well (according to statics theory anyway) however in real
life,the bolts (one per wheel, natch) eventually did fatigue and shear off.
when this happened, the right front knockoff fell off the car and i nearly
lost the wheel. very scary and unsafe. do not fix the problem this way.
anyway Larry, unless you want to risk a very dangerous incident, try not to
put off fixing your wheels too long. and fix 'em properly with new hub$
and wheel$. also, i have almost never seen used hubs or wheels that have
worthwhile splines, so buying new is most likely the most economical fix in
the long run.
if you do delay fixing...if for some reason some of your splines are better
than others, move them to the back since most braking is accomplished by
the front disk brakes. stopping, not accecelerating, is the failure mode
you need to insure against. dont move any from one side of the car to the
other though, since your knockoffs will vibrate (precess) themselves off.
you will also want to tighten your knockoffs to the MAX, and although
others have advised grease, i think there should be none at all.
tightening the nut is adding a friction component on top iof the mechanical
interlocking of the splines, and grease will reduce this friction
considerably.
if you get chrome wires, get daytons. they cost more than dunlops, but
they use stainless spokes and good quality chrome that wont show rust
nearly as soon as the others.
and Robert, i think new and otherwise healthy splines fit without any
slop...with the car on jack stands, have a friend step on the brakes while
you try to turn the wheel back and forth (knock-off not installed, of
course). if there's more than a smidgen of slop, beware.
oh yeah, do make sure the clunk you hear isn't just a worn ujoint :-)
best of luckto both of you
robert
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