Comments spliced in below..
At 11:49 PM 11/27/96 -0500, John T. Blair wrote:
>At 09:53 PM 11/27/96 -0600, Jay Quinn wrote:
>
>> Well, my wife just bought a used '94 Honda Accord EX model with
>> 21K miles. I just drove it around and really like it.....
>
>> After I drove it and parked in the garage, I took a trouble light
>> and crawled under the car and.......Guess what I discovered?
>>
>>RUST!
>>
>>....
>>
>> The majority of the rust is around the backs of the
>> wheels/suspension areas as well as the exhaust system.
>> ....
>> How in the hell do I get rid of the stuff?
>>
>> What Can I possible do to stop the rust problem?
>>
>> Can I squirt something on it, scrub and blast it off with?
>>
>> I ask here because I know guys and gals out here restore old cars
>> that have rust in various stages and have combated this problem.
>>
>>Please help me!
>>
>
>Jay,
>
> I guess the 1st question to you is, how much work do you want to
>do to stop the rust? This will determine the best way to solve the
>problem. But let me give you several options.
>
>1. The best would be to disassembly the rear suspension. Get a
Yikes! Very expensive and time consuming and will keep the car out of
comission not to mention, the wife wont let me do something like that to her
new car.
> 4" grinder and put a course knotted wire wheel on it and grind
> out the rust on the body panels.
It's not in the body panels, it's on all exposed unbody heavy duty metal
parts. Around the backs of the wheels.
>
> Likewise grind all the pieces of the suspension to remove the
> rust.
>
> Then treat the parts (more later).
>
>2. Again disassembly the rear suspension. Then you could purchase
> or rent a pressure (sand) blaster, assuming that you have at
> least a 5hp 20gal air compressor. This will make a mell of a
> hess. But it will cut into the rust and really clean it up.
I can get a sand blaster that I can glass bead the stuff while still in place.
>
> Small suspension parts can also be blasted. (Don't try to
> blast any parts with bearings, ie. the rear axle trunion.
>
> Then treat the parts.
>
>3. If you aren't into that much work simply spray everything
> with rustoleium. This isn't as good and it won't really stop
> the rust.
>
>4. For really bad areas on the body, you will have to cut the
> affected area out and weld in a new one. For suspension parts,
> if you think they have been weakend then replace them.
>
>Treating the metal parts.
>
>1. After a part or body area has been degreased, blasted or ground
> with a wire wheel, you can etch the metal with a metal
> conditioner. Ospho is one brand name. Basically, all it is, is
> fosphoric acid. This will kill any remaining rust.
>
>2. Next paint the part/area. If you really want to do the job
> right, I'd use POR-15 or Corrlas (sp). These are polyeurathane
> paints with rust inhibitors in them. They can be put over rust.
> However, the less rust the better. These paints are expensive,
> about $30 / qt.
>
> You could use RustOleium or DeRusto. These are a lot cheaper
> but they don't give as much protection.
>
>You might also want to check out the Morgan Web page at:
>
>http://www.team.net/www/morgan
>
>There is an article on Rust and another one on painting and body
>work under the restoration section.
>
>Hope this helps.
It looks liek the process is going to have to be:
1. Hit the metal parts with a rust stopper/remover.
2. Then hit with different shaped wire wheels to get at everything I can.
3. Blast clean with a detergent.
4. Reapply the rust stopper/remover coating like stuff.
5. Pray this is good enough to hold up for the next 12 years.
>
>John
>John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
>Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
>
>48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
> 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
>
>The one with the most toys, wins!
>
>
>
--
Jay Quinn '62 Austin-Healey MKII Sprite
Systems Engineer
jpquinn@cyberramp.net
http://www.cyberramp.net/~jpquinn
PGP Public Key Upon Request
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