Jerry:
Thanks for the URLs. In effort to combat the understeer on my C/GT, I
installed a rear sway bar purchased from VB. Addco I think was the brand name.
The bar changed the personality of the car but, now, I must admit it can be a
little twitchy. You enter a corner with a touch of understeer (car wants to go
wide) then the car settles in with nuetral handling and, if you're a little
hot, starts to want to oversteer (tail coming around). Letting off makes
things worse (threatens to slide). I've also considered the panhard rod to try
to lower the roll center in back. But a problem:
The sway bar mounts "backwards" in that it attaches to the body behind the
axle by mounting to the body through the boot. Thus a conventional panhard rod
would interfere with it I would assume. I'm still in my head-scratching stage
on a panhard rod. A Watts linkage would fit, but you'd have to make one.
On installing the sway bar, the "ears" bent down to attach to the axle. From
what I've read, this is a bad thing. When the car is sitting on it's tires,
the sway bar should be level. I fixed this by buying longer attachment bolts.
>From 4 up to 6 inches if I remember right. There was some interference with
the body at full compression but it is minor. I can't hear or feel it but I
can see some shiny parts on the upper fender wells. The longer bolts did
improve handling -- much better.
The other side effect of a rear sway bar is that it will have a tendency to
lift the inside rear wheel on tight corners and wheelspin is a problem. A
limited slip is way outside of my budget. I've never considered traction bars
as I always thought that as a drag racers solution. I don't abuse the LBC in
first gear and axle tramp hasn't been a problem.
I'm running stock springs and Koni tube shocks. They are stiff and, supposedly
adjustable but I haven't figured out how to adjust it yet. I would think the
single leaf fiberglass springs would be an improvement in ride control but,
probably, axle tramp would then be a problem on hard acceleration. Traction
bars may be warranted in that case.
I've bought some books on making a car handle from Classic Motorbooks
(1-800-826-6600) and they make good reading:
"How to Make your Car Handle" by Fred Puhn (1981, ISBN 0-912656-46-8)
"Tune to Win" by Carroll Smith (1978, Lib. of Congress 78-73549)
"Performance Handling" by Don Alexander (1991, ISBN 0-87938-418-2)
They are listed in the order I like them: Most applicable to LBC,
most theory, and then good practical racing coverage. No, this post doesn't
answer any of your questions (well, panhard design as well as Watts linkage is
covered well in the books) but, if you've been a good boy, maybe Santa will
add the books to your library?
Bob Allen, Kansas City, '69MGC/GT
Jerry Causey wrote:
>
> Perhaps the major focus of my LBC ownership is making my 1967 MGB GT
> the very best that it can be. Unfortunately my income isn't always up
> to my inclinations. Two additional modifications to my rear
> suspension which I have not been able to justify cost-wise are
> traction bars, which sell for about $300 (!), with shipping, and a
> Panhard rod, which seems only to be available from race car shops, at
> a price I'm afraid to check. Both of these items seem to be very
> simple to fabricate for a lot less money. JC Whitney sells traction
> bars for off-road and mini-trucks for only $63. Anyone know who might be
> the manufacturer? Anyone have a source for working drawings and/or a
> parts list for building either part? I found one Web site of the sort
> of thing I'm looking for, but it is a very generic design for a trailer:
> http://www.atldev.com/bob/school/panhardbar.htm
>
> And another Web site (for Ford Mustangs) of a great design, but of
> course, no usable detail for an MG:
> http://www.digisys-one.com/maxm/mm-1sus.htm
>
> Regards,
> Jerry Causey
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