Scott Gardner wrote:
>
> Tomorrow, I'm bleeding the brakes and clutch on my '72 B, because
> both pedals feel spongy. As a matter of fact, the clutch pedal
> travels so far down before actually moving the clutch that I barely
> get the clutch disengaged.
> I'll have a Chilton's service manual, but am looking more for
> pitfalls/special hints that only veterans of this procedure can
> provide. Any special advice? I plan to do the brakes from
> right rear -- left rear -- right front -- left front. Is this the
> correct order for the master cylinder being in the left front?
> Thanks all,
> Scott Gardner
> gardner@lwcomm.com
> Scott Gardner
> gardner@lwcomm.com
> www.lwcomm.com/~gardner
Scott -
The order is fine. If you have a MityVac, it's an easy job for one
person. I prefer that, since you are sucking out the air and old
fluid. But, if you are used to bleeding with two people, not a problem
either. Make sure the pedal operator does not let up on the pedal until
you have tightened the bleed screw again. And make sure you keep the
master resovoir topped up - or you get air in and get to start all over
again. If it's been a while since the last time, it would be a good
idea to pump out a *lot* of fluid, to flush out the system. You'll be
amazed at how dirty looking the old fluid is. Just make sure to use
compatablile fluids. DO NOT mix DOT 5 with anything else - all the
rubber parts will deteriorate! There was an extensive thread on this
list about six months ago about the relative merits of different types
of fluids. Personally, I use Castrol GT LMA (Limited Mouisture
Absorbing). It is compatabile with either DOT 3 or DOT 4.
The soft clutch could be air in the line - it could also be a worn
clutch/throwout bearing. Let's hope for the air in the line.
--
Keep on keepin' on!
Wayne Kube wkube@iadfw.net
1979 MGB http://web2.airmail.net/wkube
Plano, TX
Texas MG Register http://www.tmgr.org
NAMGBR UK Site http://www.mgcars.org.uk/namgbr
NAMGBR US Site http://www.british-cars.org.uk/kimber/namgbr
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