Hi Bruce Stevenson!!
On Sat, 19 Apr 1997, Bruce Stevenson wrote:
> problem or three. While attempting to replace the steering rack boots, we
> couldn't get the right tie rod end off. The jam nut is frozen on and the tie
> rod end will not hammer up. I tried heat from my propane torch, but no go.
Tie rod ends are not made to "hammer up" to remove them!! The fastener
has a TAPERED SHANK that fits (closely) into a TAPERED HOLE. When you
tighten down the nut, the shank "pulls down" into the hole in the arm,
and distorts until it fits the taper exactly.
Theoretically, the nut could fall off, and nothing would happen, UNLESS
the hole was distorted; then the shank would no longer fit, and would
fall out of the hole.
What YOU have to do is to distort the hole by striking two opposing
sides of the arm with TWO EQUAL WEIGHT HAMMERS. Just hit the arm
SIMULTANEOUSLY on each side with the hammers; you don't have to kill it,
just a medium tap will do it. The trick is to hit each side at the same
instant. The arm will squeeze together a bit, popping the shank out of
contact with the hole... or you could buy one of those gizmos that tear
the fitting out with brute force; not to be discounted when nothing else
will work.
> Also replaced seals in clutch slave cylinder. Now it won't bleed. Keep
> getting air coming down the bleed hose. I have the end immersed in brake
> fluid and close the bleed screw on the upstroke. Could air enter via a worn
> hose or something.
Hmmm, I would suspect improper assembly of the seal into the slave
cylinder. Do you have both the "spring--cup filler", and the
"filler--piston cup"? Are you working from a manual, so that you can
see the proper way to assemble things?
If it's the master cylinder, it's a bit more complicated than the slave,
but the principle is the same. keep things clean, and get the
reassembly sequence right.
> Please help, as Sean is getting ready to trash this thing and buy a North
> American truck.
Easy; let him drive yours until his is done...
> I start the great chore of replacing all windshield rubber on my own B
> tomorrow. Oh boy.
Actually, this isn't too bad of a job, if TWO, or MORE, people are doing
it together. Whatever you do, don't go cheap on the sealer, and make
him help you. After all, if he's going to be driving it, he should help
> ends and my impact wrench twisted the heads off several bolts on the spring
Never, Never use an impact wrench on unaltered "frozen" bolts! Either
you soak them for 4 to 5 days with penetrating oil, or you apply
local heat. That means a concentrated source of heat isolated as much
as possible from any other nearby components. A conventional propane
torch won't do the job because its' flame isn't hot, or concentrated enough.
> Bruce Stevenson Kelowna, B.C. Canada MG's ---> 1972 MGB (mint)
> President, Ogopogo Zone 1952 TD (restoration
> project)
> Canadian Ski Patrol Son Sean's 1973 MGB (religous
>wings)
Bruce, this is how your sig came through. You could try re formatting
it to 72 lines or less so that it will work...
TTUL8r, Kirk Cowen
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