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More MGA troubles...correction

To: mgbob@juno.com (ROBERT G. HOWARD)
Subject: More MGA troubles...correction
From: Don Mathis <donmathis@lucent.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 13:20:20 -0400 (EDT)
I was surprised how corroded the ground strap was on my MGA.  This leads
from the body to the frame. 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
*******This should have been "This leads from the BATTERY to the
frame."**************

Note that this is very difficult to see.  You must remove it to see it.  If
it is making a bad contact then your battery will appear rather worthless.
Remove this cable and wire brush the connection that attaches to the frame.  
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------
 The wire appeared to be about 6-8 months old
but the end at the car was badly corroded.  I was also surprised to see how
corroded and consequently making a bad contact were the wires going to the
voltage regulator and the fuse holder; both on the firewall.  You might
check these in that if there's a bad contact, it makes a big difference.
Good luck-




>>
>>> >As some of you may recall, my previous exploits have gone like 
>>this:
>>> >everything works okay (runs rich) but no top and I'm reluctant to 
>>take 
>>> >it
>>> >to a garage where it may have to sit out so: put on new top -> no 
>>> >clutch
>>> >right where she sits in the driveway -> replace cluth hose and 
>>bleed
>>> >everything -> brakes locked up -> bleed some more -> no turn 
>>signals 
>>> >or
>>> >brake lights -> my current problem.  I unhooked the green wires 
>>(it's 
>>> >a
>>> >1600) from the fuse box and hooked them to the hot white wire one 
>>at a
>>> >time and labeled them... gas guage (ok), turn signals (ok), brake 
>>> >lights
>>> >(too bright out to tell), and wipers (ok).  Hook green wires back 
>>up 
>>> >and
>>> >only the wipers work.  Whats worse is I pull the starter cable and 
>>> >nothing
>>> >but a faint hiss from the rear (battery?)! 
>>> Hi Tom,
>>>  I can't speak to the instruments in particular, but with the 
>>symptom you
>>> describe of the starter, my first thought is that the battery 
>>terminals
>>> are corroded, and the connnections are poor. That would explain the 
>>hiss.
>>> Use a "battery post brush" to clean, then coat with grease or 
>>vaseline
>>> and reassemble.
>>> 
>>The terminals ARE clean, you could eat of from them!  Other stuff 
>>works,
>>so I'm wondering if I could have shorted out/repolarixed the coil or 
>>the
>>generator.
>
>Tom,
> The coil won't be affected by anything you have done unless you have
>changed the polarity of then battery/car connections. If you did that, to
>set it up as Negative Earth, all you need to do is to swap the two wires
>to the coil.
>  Starters run OK with either polarity, so nothing will affect it,
>assuming it was OK to begin with. 
>  Have you checked the connection of the large wire from the battery to
>the starter? IF that connection is poor, again the starter won't get good
>power, and, I think, a #12 or #10 comes from that post up to power the
>rest of the electrical system at the fuse panel. (I don't know A's at
>all, so just stabbing at likely targets here) 
>
>>>  Now what do I do?  Thomas,
>>> >you've really done it this time!  Seriosly, all I did was unhook 
>>those
>>> >wires, strip them back a little, and hook them back up.  BTW, I 
>>pulled 
>>> >the
>>> >fuse to see but no difference in the starting.  I've got the 
>>charger 
>>> >on it
>>> >now.  Help, PLEASE!  I really want to drive this thing at least 
>>once.
>>> >
>>> >Also, while it's sitting in the driveway with the fuel pump 
>>clicking 
>>> >away,
>>> >fuel is dripping out the overflow on the front float bowl.  The 
>>> >clearance
>>> >is 7/16" and it moves freely, what could it be?
>>>  Sounds as though the float or the needle has stuck, probably from
>>> dried,hardened gas due to inactivity.  Try gentle rapping on the 
>>bowl
>>> with the handle of a screwdriver. If that doesn't work, just undo 
>>the
>>> center bolt, lift off the top of the float bowl, and jiggle the 
>>needle
>>> with your finger to loosen it. Reassemble. Remember the gasket. >
>>
>>I should mention, this is the carb thar was running rich, but it never
>>leaked out the overflow until I opened it up to check the float level. 
>> I
>>can't remember If I adjusted the lvel or not. 
> If it's still overflowing after you rap it and open it up, chances are
>that the valve is worn. Might as well use the 3/8 or 7/16 rod to adjust
>the float while your're at it.  One way is to blow down the supply line
>toward the float bowl while you test it with the bar. An air leak will
>hiss a little. 
>Bob
>
>>
>>Thanks for listening,
>>
>>Tom
>>
>>> Bob Howard
>>> 
>>> >Thanks for listening,
>>> >
>>> >Tom, '60 MGA 1600
>>> >
>>> >
>>> 
>>
>>
>
>
>
Don Mathis,Ph.D.
donmathis@lucent.com
'61 MGA 
'37 Derby Bentley (B190KT)



Don Mathis,Ph.D.
donmathis@lucent.com
'61 MGA 
'37 Derby Bentley (B190KT)


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