DUH! It took me forever to figure out how to post something in spite
of Scott Gardner's guidance.
Even though I've already ordered the Piper 270 cam and higher
compression pistons for my 1979 "B" from Brit-tek today, I was wondering if
anyone has had any real world experience with these items in regards to how
much power I can expect using the stock carb/manifold set-up and what I can
expect when I go to get my emissions test in Georgia. I did manage to pass
the test last time with nothing but a new catalytic converter. The PO
desmogged it.
Next question-My smog head was cracked in 3 places. My local head
shop(not the 60's 70's type-you do remember the incense, black lights etc.
don't you?) had a rebuilt smog head on the shelf. All openings matched, the
rocker mechanism is the same, everything was the same except that the
castings were different in non-critical areas. The most noticeable
difference is that the new head has a series of "dimples" on the manifold
surface. Alphanumeric castings on the top include: DH,
176, PAT NO 565394(the 9 might be an 8), and CAM 1106 AF3H.
Can anyone help me identify the year of this head? Thanks for any help!
You'll love this last topic! With almost all modern vehicles running
on 5w-30 oil and easily lasting 100,000 plus miles before major engine work,
why are we running our MGs on 20w-50? Is the oil so thick that oil is not
reaching engine parts during critical moments of cold starts? Would a
10w-40 oil be a better choice especially during the colder seasons? Is
anyone out there running a different grade of oil besides 20w-50? What's
your experience? Maybe it's just the fact that 20w-50 leaves smaller puddles
on the garage floor. We've discussed the "hearts" of our cars enough let's
go for the "blood" now.
Tom Green
1979 MGB
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