Seeking advice from listers with electrical competence.
Car is a '61 Midget with numerous electrical "modifications" (and a =
1275)=20
I was having starting problems; nothing would happen when the ignition =
was turned on, no ignition light, and no fuel pump. (starter switch is =
separate on early midgets) I pulled out the regulator/control box and =
opened it up. I noticed that the innards, while similar to my Haynes and =
Autobook were not the same. Sure enough, the exterior reads "Harting - =
made in Germany." The pattern of connectors is identical to the "Lucar =
connectors" version in my Autobook. The insides appear to be =
conceptually the same, but with different adjustment mechanisms and =
locations. I cleaned the contacts and set gaps to the spacing in my =
Autobook, replaced it and the car started right up.=20
When it runs the ignition light is on at idle and stays on until it revs =
fairly high. No, I don't know the RPM as the PO attempted to graft an =
impulse Tach into the wiring and I haven't got it working yet. (WAG - =
2000 rpm) (Any tach advice will be gratefully accepted as well.)
I know that one of the functions of the control box is to cut the =
generator out of the circuit at low RPMs but what is "Low?" Does this =
actually prevent the battery from "discharging through the generator" (I =
don't want to know the answer to that if it will fry my tiny brain.)=20
Is it normal for the light to come on at low RPM? It didn't before I =
messed with the regulator.=20
Which of the contacts controls what? Low rpm cutout, battery fully =
charged cutout etc. The books don't make this clear.
I can reset the low RPM cutout with a timing light if I know which =
contact to adjust and what RPM to set it at.=20
Phil Vanner
Mk1 Midget (Thinking that this could be a good driving weekend)=20
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