Michael, good post. This is a "keeper", but I do have a question. I
would have guessed you just cut out the old floor, using a nibbler,
cutting torch or a Sawzall? Your method sound like the correct way but
certainly the hard way. What problems would be encountered if you just
attack the floor and saw it out?
Larry Hoy (MGB.Roadster@juno.com)
Denver, CO USA
1969 MGB Roadster
1987 Jaguar XJ6 Vanden Plas
===============================
On Mon, 13 Oct 1997 00:37:38 -0400 "Michael P. Ohleger" <mikeoh@gte.net>
writes:
>Vince J. Pujalte wrote:
>>
>> Hi Mike,
>>
>> I will be re-flooring my '76 B before too long.
>> Could you kind of "run me through it" in e-mail form?
>>
>> <<snip>>
>
>Sure Vince. After you have removed the seats, carpet and mats, you need
>to chisel out the "tar" sound proofing around the outer edges of the
>floor pan and along the cross member about where your forward seat bolts
>are. Then using a wire brush attached to your electric drill take the
>paint and debris off these areas. This will expose the spot welds. The
>show up as 'pock marks" or indentations, and are usually about an inch
>apart depending how zealous the bloke with the welder was that day. You
>may also see a stitch weld along the rear and near the tranny tunnel,
>this was because there is no flange located there.
>
>Now, Eastwood offers a drill bit that allows you to control the depth of
>your drill and drill out the welds. This is harder than it sounds. You
>need to punch an indentation into each weld so your drill doesn't
>travel, and you have to use a drill that turns at less than 900 rpms.
>You'll also find that it gets real hairy when you have to do this in the
>footwell under your clutch, brake, and gas pedals. Ugh!
>
>Once you have drilled out "all" of the spots[and you'll discover you
>haven't] you may have to chisel some of the areas to give them help.
>The Eastwood bit allows you to only drill through the upper layer of
>steel and not through the floor, so you are left with a little button
>on the flange, which has to be taken off with your angle grinder.
>
>The new pan will lay nicely in place and can be spot or stitch welded in
>place OR you can pop rivet it and fill the gaps with seam sealer (not
>recommended). Be sure you treat all the areas where the new pan will
>sit to prevent the rust worm from continuing his damage. Some good work
>with a steel brush and rust proof paint will go along way to prevent
>doing this again.
>
>I know of no book or guide that can prepare or show you how to do this.
>the DIY book doesn't even mention it, even though it covers sill
>replacement very well.
>
>Good luck. You'll need it
>
>Cheers.
>
>Michael Ohleger
>'67 MGB
>'70 MGB
>>
>
>
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