Hi Carol:
To do the job right you need an oxyacetylene torch. This isn't your usual
household item but they are available used quite cheaply. You should try
to get a small, light-duty set with a couple of welding tips and maybe a
cutting tip. You will also need a set of goggles and some gloves - also
inexpensive. Check the pawn shops and bargain finder newspapers.
The big problem is that you will have to buy or rent tanks of oxygen and
acetylene. These aren't too terribly expensive for a set of small tanks
and will last you for many years with small usage. After that a simple
book on welding or some lessons from someone like Vince should have you on
the way. Using the hot wrench is the only way to accurately remove seized
nuts and bolts on an old car. It may seem like a lot of trouble to buy
this equipment but it will pay for itself over and over. Thw whole thing
shouldn't cost you more than $300 or so. You can also learn how to weld
with this stuff and will soon be able to repair sheet metal and do other
welding work. A good instructor and a good book will soon have you
completing successful work. Have fun. I did.
John
>How about some "blue wrench" lessons? When I was disassembling the
>headlight assemblies for replacement I could have used a torch or some kind
>of bfh, but I needed the nut and bolt for reuse (it was Friday night! No
>parts on Saturday) AND I was working up close and personal with the front
>wings.
>
>When and where and how does one go about using the torch? I have one I
>bought to brown the top of stuffed baked potatoes. I'm sure it'll work on a
>stuck nut, too! But how?
>
>Carol
>
>
>At 12:38 PM 10/16/97 -0400, Art Pfenninger wrote:
>> Yes they share the same lube. To get the nut loose heat it with a
>>propane torch. Another solution is the same as you might use to get the
>>ball joint off. Put a hammer on one side of the nut and strike the other
>>side of the nut with another hammer. This will break the nut loose without
>>damageing it.
>>...Art
>>
>>On Thu, 16 Oct 1997 BobMGT@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> Just discovered a tear in one of the B's steering rack boots.
>>> Of course I don't want to drive with this, and I already had a
>>> spare set, so out came the wrenches. Well the side with
>>> the tear has a stuck lock nut, the one you have to loosen
>>> to get the tie rod out of the ball joint. The nut has a gash in it.
>>> Looks like it took a pretty good hit from some stone or something.
>>> I don't know if the nut is stuck from being deformed or from rust.
>>> Any ideas on getting it loose? I don't know what to do other than
>>> soaking it in "Blaster" and buying longer wrenches.
>>>
>>> BTW, does the rack and the boot share the same oil? In other
>>> words, will the steering pinion loose its lubrication if there is
>>> a tear in the boot? When you put the new boot on, do you
>>> put any kind of lube in it, or does filling the rack with oil take
>>> care of that?
>>>
>>> The rod inside the old boot looks like it is covered with reasonably
>>> clean oil, so I'm thinking I found the tear in time. I hope.
>>>
>>> Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
>>> EMAIL - BOBMGT@AOL.COM
>>> 52 MGTD - under DIY restoration NEMGTR #11470
>>> 71 MGB - finally home after 2 years in shop, AMGBA #96-12029
>>>
>>
>>
>>
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