On Mon, 24 Nov 1997, Rich Mason wrote:
> At 08:30 AM 11/23/97 -0500, Art wrote:
> > Using the HVLP gun you need no more than 2 quarts of paint. I
> >recommend lacquer. Depending on the color it should be $40 or less a
> >quart. Next you will need 1 quart of surfacer primer, about $25. You will
> >also need 2 gallons of lacquer thinner about $18 per gallon. A quart of
> >Prep-Sol and 5 sheets of 400 grit and 5 sheets 600 grit wet& dry sand
> >paper as well as a few sheets of regular paper to lightly sand the car
> >before painting. If you are dealing with the original finish and it is in
> >decent condition you shouldn't have to remove it. If it has been repainted
> >then you will need to determine what type of finish it has and get advice
> >from the paint dealer on what to do with it. One last item will be a can
> >of rubbing compound to rub the lacguer out.This will cost about $7.00.
> >Paint- $80
> >Primer $40
> >Thinner $36
> >Prep-Sol $15
> >Sandpaper $10
> >Rubbing compound $7
> > ------
> > $188
> >
> >I was a little off from the $150 I for got to add in stuff (Prep-Sol and
> >sand paper) that I have laying around and therefore don't have to
> >purchase.
> >...Art
>
>
> Art-
>
> Thanks for the info...the body shop supply folks here are recommending an
> acrylic enamel with a hardener system (they don't even sell lacquer any
> more). I guess that's part of the higher cost I'm seeing. I'm not sure
> what I'm going to do now. I hope you don't mind a few more questions... :)
****I doubt that you would get a job you would be happy with using enamel,
it doesn't forgive mistakes. Everything has to be just right otherwise you
end up with a finish without any depth, only a surface shine.
>
> 1) What is Prep-Sol?
****** Prep-Sol is made by DuPont it is used before sanding to remove
silicone,tar,wax weathered finish, etc from old lacquer and synthetic
enamel finishes.
>
> 2) I too, was thinking that lacquer was the way to go, but everyone is
> trying to talk me out of it. The only negative that I hear is that you have
> a lot more labor to rub out the finish initially, and you have to
> periodically buff it out. Is there a way to clear-coat the lacquer to keep
> it shiny and new-looking?
*****There is more work involved compared to enamel but that is what
makes it so easy to do a good job.It dries so fast you can shoot it out
doors without fear of dust getting into it. If it runs you can sand it
out at once. The shine is produced by rubbing the more you rub (or buff)
the better it looks. With a buffer it isn't hard work at all.
> 3) Will a good waxing keep lacquer from needing the rubbing out (after the
> initial work)
******You really don't have to do anything more than with any other
finish. After a while most finishes dull somewhat. With lacquer a good
past wax with a little rubbing compuund in it will bring it back like new.
> > 4) How many coats of lacquer do you recomend?
****Depends on how much rubbing you plan on doing. Don't over do it though
too much will cause cracking. Two quarts , after it is thinned out will
make about 1 1/2 gallons of paint. You reall don't need this much.
>
> 5) Is wet sanding w/ 600 grit between coats just for defect removal, or is
> it required for adhesion?
*****You don't have to sand between coats, each coat melts into the next.
After a few days you sand the whole car down to make it smooth, then you
rub it out.
>
> If anyone else with experience wants to jump in here - I'd appreciate all
> the help I can get!
****I just realized I added $40 for the primer it should be $25. Also !
gallon of thinner is enough so subtract another $17 dollars.If you need
more info email me directly.
...Art
>
> Thanks again for your help.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rich Mason
> '73 MGB
> Huntsville, AL
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