mgs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Rust treatments

To: mhartwig@cbu.edu
Subject: Re: Rust treatments
From: dmeadow@juno.com
Date: Thu, 25 Dec 1997 09:00:49 -0600
I feel I need to weigh in here as one that has used POR-15 and have been
very pleased with it.  I find that it is much easier to use than other
methods because it will paint right over a rusty surface (after wire
brushing it) without having to prime the surface.  It should be topcoated
if exposed to sunlight, but otherwise leaves a nice glossy finish.

I had some on a brake drum that I later decided to powder coat.   The
drum had sat outside for a couple of years.  Because I hadn't topcoated
it the finish faded, but there was no rust.  I took it to the powder
coater to sandblast it off and he had a hell of a time!  I ended up
giving him a bit extra money for his trouble.  The stuff really sticks to
raw metal.  Once it dries it forms a coating that is much tougher than
paint and seems impossible to chip, as long as it was applied correctly. 
I now use POR-15 for everything that I don't powder coat in my TD
restoration, since powder coating isn't practical for all pieces and can
be expensive.  I haven't tried Eastwood's version, Corroless, but
supposedly it doesn't need topcoating.

Yes, it will solidify in the can, although the manufacturer gives you
procedures to follow that will help to prevent that from happening.  I
wouldn't recommend buying more than a pint at a time, unless you plan to
use it all at once.  A pint will go a long way, but is expensive at $19 a
shot!

David Littlefield
Houston, TX

On Wed, 24 Dec 1997 17:11:17 -0600 Mike Hartwig <mhartwig@cbu.edu>
writes:
>At 12:27 PM 12/24/97 -0500, Art Pfenninger wrote:
>>      I tried POR 15 and it didn't really work, I doubt Eastwoods 
>is any
>>better. You can get a starter kit of Por 15 for $10. It includes a 
>metal
>>etch and brush. Once opened the can hardens up after a few weeks. For 
>this
>>reason I wouldn't get a large can. Contact Restoration Products at
>>1-800-777-6715. 
>>...Art
>
>yep, i tend to agreee with Art here.  This stuff is just voodoo and is 
>no
>better 
>than mere spray-on undercoating.  All ya gotta do is stop moisture 
>from
>reaching
>metal, from both sides of the metal too. 
>
>if you want to spend some time on such a project, clean up the surface
>really well;
>remove all rust with grinder; wipe down with Ospho, or better yet, use 
>Zinc
>Primer on an absolutely clean surface.
>Then paint or apply undercoating material.  Unless Por 15 or Eastwoods
>material contain
>any inorganics such as Zinc Powder, their performance will be no 
>better
>than <insert automotive store here>'s undercoat at $3 a bottle.
>
>Jay 
>
>

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>