Thanks to everyone for the advice.
I'm going to try the wet check next weekend. The Marvel Mystery Oil =
might be my short-term solution until later this year and at least keep =
things from going from bad to worse. I just don't have the bucks to =
replace the head (or worse, a total rebuild) right now. I'm definitely =
looking to rebuild the engine eventually anyway. It runs strong and it's =
by no means critical transportation.
I would put the battery back where it belongs, but someone installed a =
fuel pump in there (?). Will it go on the left side? I've heard it'll =
only fit on the right but they look the same size to me. Of course, =
maybe the cable's too short? I'll probably just install a good secure =
bracket and box back there, but nothing too permanent. The disconnect =
switch is a good idea.
The shock is not leaking badly, I'll try the ATF! All four need to be =
checked for fluid anyway.
I hadn't planned on rebuilding the MC just yet, as it seems to be fine,
=
but new wheel cylinders and hoses, etc., definitely!
I've also checked every electrical component's operation. I'm quite =
pleased to announce that with the exception of needing one new headlight =
(a spare came with the car) and the horn inop, EVERYTHING works! Gauges, =
all dash lights, wipers and even the trunk light! Wow! :)
Thanks again
Dan
'73 Blaze B
Still undaunted and optimistic but gonna work on easy stuff now until =
payday...where's my Armor All?
----------
From: ROBERT G. HOWARD
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 1998 5:23 PM
To: danray@bluegrass.net
Subject: Re: Battery in the Trunk? Compression
Hi Dan,
If you can do it (the battery bracket is still there) you might just
want to move the battery back to its original home. It's out of the way
there, and you don't have too much room in the boot anyway. Suggest =
that
you install a master disconnect switch for the battery. I used a
cole-hersee in the panel behind the passenger seat. You will be
connecting/dinconnecting the battery a lot, so can get $20 of =
convenience
out of the switch quite quickly.
The compression numbers are quite weak. If you took them with the
engine stone cold, try taking the readings again at normal operating
temp. There may be an improvement.... The low cylinder is probably
valves, but put two squirts of oil from your pump oiler into the
cylinder, then test again. The oil will seal the rings, sort of, so if
the compression is about the same it tells you that the leaking is
through the valves. You might be lucky enough to find that the rings are
stuck in the pistons from a period of disuse. Why not get it warm, =
change
oil to 10-30, maybe with a shot of Marvel Mystery Oil too, and see if
they get better.=20
Try putting ATF into the leaky shock. Sometimes the additives in the
stuff will swell a leaking seal.
Brakes, well you were going to rebuild the MC and the wheel cylinders
anyway, and replace the three rubber hoses even though they may look OK,
weren't you?
This all sounds encouraging to me.
Bob
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