Bob,
Thanks for the instructions. That's a keeper and I'll do this when I =
fix/restore the brake system to its former glory. It'll do me no good to =
try bleeding the brakes until then, since obviously the fluid will just =
go in the M/C and right out the gooey mess that is currently my right =
rear wheel.=20
This is going to be a full replacement of front rotors, pads/shoes, =
wheel cylinders, etc. I'm just hoping the M/C is ok (won't really know =
until I get the rest of the system squared away)=20
The drums are ok, (we measured them) besides the one being wet, and =
should do fine without turning. Any opinions on drum turning? I would =
think the rotors are much more critical since they usually take a =
majority of the load.
I think the drums were replaced once, while the rotors look like they've =
been through a war, probably the originals, but who knows?=20
I've decided the 56K on my odometer is suspect, given the state of some =
of the parts. Could someone actually destroy and fix so much stuff in =
56K miles? I doubt it...:)
Dan
'73 B=20
----------
From: ROBERT G. HOWARD
Sent: Monday, January 19, 1998 4:22 PM
To: danray@bluegrass.net
Subject: Re: Brake test switch
Hi Dan,
It does sound like a bad sensor switch, but.....
Try bleeding the master cylinder, since it's cheap and easy to do.=20
This is copied from John Twist's Tech Manual:
1. Bleed the system.=20
a. Begin at the rear. Open the bleeder, press the pedal to the
floor, close the bleeder, release the pedal, wait 20 seconds
(emphasized). Repeat until clean fluid runs from the bleeders.=20
b. Bleed front calipers. The 20 second wait can be reduced to
Several seconds.
(this waiting is to give the MC time to refill the cylinder from the
reservoir)
2. Unscrew the brake pressure warning light switch from the botttom of
the MC until you hear a click. If the valve is centered already, you =
will
not hear a click.
Sometimes, refitting the switch is a real hassle.It helps if the air
cleaner has been removed. DO NOT BREAK THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT SWITCH. =
It
is plastic and will snap if too much pressure is applied. BE CAREFUL. It
is best not to completely remove the switch from the MC casting.
3. Make certain to top off the MC when you have completed the bleeding.
4. Re adjust the rear brakes after several miles of driving.
What I'm hoping is that there is a bit of dirt in the MC or in the =
switch
that will be moved aside during the bleeding. You "can" run without =
that
light--my TD has only one circuit and no light, and millions of cars are
equally vulnerable. I guess I would try to get it working, but would not
avoid using the car if I didn't suceed, as long as I knew that all the
brake lines were new rubber.
Bob
On Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:03:59 -0600 DANIEL RAY <danray@bluegrass.net>
writes:
>Bob,=20
>Thanks. Sounds like I have a working light and a broken sensor switch=20
>at the M/C!
>Dan
>
>
|