John Vallely wrote:
> I'm putting the HP ("mild road") cam from Moss into an
> overbored 1600.
Curious ... did you "overbore" for the 1622 pistons/rods? ...
if so, std 1622 pistons (1600 +.032) or +.010 1622 pistons
(1600 +.042)?
> I'm now looking at either: 1. an offset key ($67??!!); or
> 2. an adjustable sprocket (+/- $280); or 3. not degreeing
> it at all since it's not a race engine. Mechanic says
> degreeing is important ...
Agreed, especially with the longer duration cam ... you can
purchase the offset key for less than $10 from APT ... give
them a call at 1-800-278-3278 ... get a copy of their catalog
'cause they have lots of nice 'go fast' bits.
> ... that the extra labor in using the offset keys eats up any
> savings in parts costs.
Disagree ... use of the adustable sprocket is certainly easier,
but removal of the camshaft sprocket/timing chain is all thats
required to fit the offset key. IOW, regardless of which bit
is used one still has to go through the process of determining
the actual valve timing ... then correct the timing by either
adjusting the verner sprocket or removing/replacing the stock
camshaft sprocket to allow fitting of the appropriate offset key.
I just can't see how the cost fitting an offset key is going to
come close to the cost of a verner sprocket ... only hassle is
that you won't know which key to purchase until after the
acutal timing is determined, so he may want to purchase the
full range of keys.
As you stated, your not building a race engine so IMHO you don't
need the the adustable sprocket ... but the offset key makes
alot of sense.
Safety Fast! ... larry.g.unger@lmco.com
'61 MGA 1600 MkII
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