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Re: Age, Treachery, and metal fatigue

To: Phil Vanner <pvanner@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Age, Treachery, and metal fatigue
From: neil.cairns@virgin.net
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 06:54:17 -0700
Phil Vanner wrote:
> 
> Bill, Bill, Bill
> What are we going to do with you? If you can't take care of your toys you 
>won't be allowed to keep them...
> 
> And here's the guy who goes on about what a great car the MGA is.
> Not even 40 years old and the thing snaps off in your hand - what a rip-off.
> 
> Phil Vanner
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:   Bill Eastman [SMTP:william.eastman@medtronic.com]
> Sent:   Thursday, August 20, 1998 3:26 PM
> To:     mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject:        Age, Treachery, and metal fatigue
> 
> I was out for a quick spin in the A over lunch and, on a 2-3 upshift, the
> shift knob decided that it wanted to be a rebel and explore new territory
> outside of its traditional H pattern.  So I now have a shift knob that is
> free of its worldly shackles and a shift lever that's about an inch short
> of its original stature.
> 
> Working at a high tech company has to have some advantages so I took the
> shift knob with the broken end of the lever still in its clutches over to
> the people in metallurgy research.  They were unwilling to put it on the
> scanning electron microscope but cursory visual inspection identified the
> failure as a fatigue fracture due to shear stresses- probably ductile in
> nature.  Oh well, we all have to go some time.  Let's hope the front stub
> axles or brake pedal isn't next.
> 
> So the problem is how do I fix this?  Memory of past threads is that the
> MGA shift lever doesn't just pop out on its own accord because of some pin
> or another.  I also have heard the reproduction shift levers leave a bit to
> be desired.  I am in a quandary and am looking for advice.  Should I:
> 
> 1) Replace the lever?  If so how tough is it to do?  Any first person
> experience with repro levers or offers of used levers would be appreciated.
> 
> 2) Just cut off the end of the lever, bore out the Moss Wooden shift knob
> to fit over the stub and use a grub screw and/or epoxy to hold the mess
> together.  I shorter shift pattern would be kind of neat.  How short should
> I go?
> 
> 3) Take the old lever out and find a way to get new threads cut to hold the
> shift knob.  How tough is the lever?  Will the chrome chip at the shoulder?
>  Again, how short should I go?
> 
> For now I will use the angle grinder to knock off the sharp edges plus
> maybe a little duct tape to keep my palm in one piece but I would like to
> have this solved by Wings and Wheels on 12 September.  Having a bent bonnet
> will be bad enough but a broken shift lever too will make it look like I
> don't maintain the poor thing.
> 
> Regards,
> Bill Eastman
> 61 MGA loosing another small skirmish to Father Time.
 Remove the lever, put it into a vice, file about 1" off to the outer
diameter of the ( 3/8" ANC I think  ) thread, the lever is only mild
steel, chromed. Obtain a die, cut the new thread. Drill a hole in the
thread stuck inside the old knob, use an easyout to remove the broken
off bit, refit the knob.

Ensure the nylon cup is affixed to the ball end before refitting the
lever, this is often in the bottom of the casing!!!

Fixed.

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