>dresden@tiac.net wrote:
>> Aren't there any local auto parts stores that lend tools out up there?
>
> Not to my knowledge, except for the big chains which don't
>have tools like this.
>
>> (And besides, what's $100 CDN these days anyway...)
>
> It's still $100. We don't all get raises when the currency
>drops. ;>
>
>> The hone should leave a checkerboard looking pattern at about a 60 degree
>> angle.
>
> How long should that take with a typical drill operating
>slowly? Just for order-of-magnitude.
Trevor,
How long it will take depends on the coarseness of the hone; if it's brand
new and quite rough it shouldn't take more than a few passes. Make one pass
at low rpm, feeding it in so that it would seem that it will create an
angle that is desirable, and then check your results All you're looking
for is a gentle scuffing that will keep some oil up on the cylinder walls.
I did some double checking on the question, one engine book I have advises
anywhere from 20 to 60 degrees angle, and just bust it up enough so that
there aren't any glazed sections left. Use a spring loaded or brush type
hone (not a precision, or fixed, type). There should be some cross-hatch
left near the bottom of the cylinder, try to roughly replicate that. Cast
iron rings are the rings of choice if you're not reboring, but just honing,
as they are more tolerant of bores that aren't completely straight. And if
you just want this engine to last until you buy that ROVER(!!) engine, then
you don't need to be too picky. (It will probably work just fine anyway, as
long as you don't leave it completely glazed). Remember there's the right
way to do it, the "alright" way to do it, the "not as good but it'll have
to do" way...and so on. The way you'll be doing it actually is acceptable,
but not as good as a complete rebuild.
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