Doug,
1) There are no ball joints in a 77 MGB. =20
2) The light switch/turnsignal/horn is notoriously weak. I am on =
my third.
3) The Bondo in the sill is serious. That is part of the body =
structure and may be seriously compromised. (been there and done that)
I have had my 77 B for 9 years and about 80,000 miles. It has served me =
well. Good luck to you with yours.
Ken Scott
77 MGB
>>> "doug russell" <dr-doug@classic.msn.com> 11/02 2:34 PM >>>
List,
Well, I went ahead a picked up that 77B last week. I got for less than =
it's=20
"$1K firm" asking price and towed it home last Thursday (Thanks to all of =
you=20
who responded to my post about its purchase). Got it registered and =
inspected=20
on Friday and it's now part of the daily driving stable. At this point =
I=20
intend to use it as a daily driver for the foreseeable future. =20
I have noticed some interesting differences between the 76B and the 77B. =
The=20
76 B instrumentation and accessory locations are very similar to earlier =
Bs=20
(e.g., my 69s) but the 77 is very different. New style gauges, the =
light=20
switch is located on the steering column cowl (very weird), a working =
clock. =20
In short, it looks like the B got a big interior makeover from 76 to 77. =
I=20
wasn't aware of this and thought that all RBs had similar interior setups. =
=20
Live and learn. Also the 77 seems to handle better but this may be due to =
the=20
suspension on the 76 being tired.
The car does need attention. Its biggest negative is the rusty sills =
that=20
have been covered in bondo - I may or may not repair this in the future. =
In=20
the meantime does anyone have any experience with or a source for sill =
covers?
There are a few things I need some help with.
I have noticed that *sometimes* when I depress the clutch pedal the =
hydraulics=20
make a moaning sound very similar to the sound of a hydraulic system =
pushed to=20
the end of its reach (if you know what I mean). Does anyone know what =
this=20
means? The fluid is topped up.
The turn signal stalk is working but the back and forth motion for the =
brights=20
is broken (it was working fine before the inspector had the car but =
that's=20
another story). If left alone the brights stay on and I've resorted to =
a=20
rubber band to hold the stalk in a position that keeps the brights off. =
So=20
I'll be needing the turn signal/horn/brights stalk. I did try to replace =
it=20
with a spare stalk I have for a 69 but they are configured differently. =
=20
Anyone have a used source or spare for a 77?
The temperature gauge goes 3/4 of the way to HOT at startup and then goes =
to=20
Hot after the car is warmed up. The water temp actually seems fine so =
it=20
seems to be the sending unit or gauge. Any guesses to the cause or=20
diagnostics?
The gas gauge kind of just sits there at 1/4 full (or 3/4 empty - take =
your=20
pick). I'm thinking that it might be the sending unit but am not sure. =
Any=20
diagnostic info will be appreciated.
The inspector said that the ball joints need to be replace but frankly I =
don't=20
see that - one of the gaiters is torn - anyway any diagnostic for the =
ball=20
joints??
Well, that's it for now. Hope you folks can help with some of this. =20
Thanks,
Dr. Doug=20
69 C Roadster
69 C GT
69 B Roadster
76 B=20
77 B <-- New Item
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