John.......
If only the front brakes are working, you may have more than a problem with
air in the lines. There's a good chance the rear wheel cylinders are seized
up, or that the rear hose has collapsed internally, or that the car has been
chained down on a flat bed hauler and the chains over the rear axle have
crushed the metal brake pipes.
The '77 I just put back on the road had two out of three of those problems!
(And I changed the hose anyway since I was fitting new ones at the front to
replace visibly cracked ones and I figured the rear one was probably the
same age.)
Pull off one rear drum at a time, have someone press the brake pedal and see
if both wheel cylinder pistons push out of the cylinder. If they don't,
start checking what needs to be replaced before you spend a lot of time
bleeding the system.
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
-----Original Message-----
From: john.griffen@savannah.chatham.k12.ga.us
<john.griffen@savannah.chatham.k12.ga.us>
To: MGS@autox.team.net <MGS@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:54 AM
Subject: Brake bleeding
>Thank for all of your responses to my questions on my gauges!!! Due to
>previous owner neglect....I need to bleed the brakes on my 1980 B. (only
>the front brakes are working....gas pedal is spongy). I have the PDWA
>(pressure differental warning activator) option. The Haynes manual states
>two methods for bleeding....one...for those cars without PDWA you bleed in
>the "normal method" of right rear, left rear, righ front...etc.
>But....for PDWA you need to start with Front Left , Front right then
>rear.....Other sources of material state always bleed in the "normal
>method". Which is right....does it matter? Any tips?
>
>John Griffen
>Savannah, Georgia (where winter is spring in most parts of the usa)
>
>
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