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RE: Bleeding Hell

To: "'Adrian Jones'" <AdrianJones@compuserve.com>, MG <mgs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: RE: Bleeding Hell
From: Hans Duinhoven <H.Duinhoven@simac.nl>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 08:48:24 +0100
Hi Adrian,

Thanks for the story.
What type of master cylinder have you got?
Have you got a pressure warning switch?
My '71 BGT has the dual master without servo with a PWS.
There should be some following order to perform bleeding.
Anyway what's the recommended following order for mine?

Cheers,

Hans
'71BGT still carpeting

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Adrian Jones [SMTP:AdrianJones@compuserve.com]
> Sent: Saturday, December 05, 1998 20:09
> To:   MG
> Subject:      Bleeding Hell
> 
> Hi All,
> I am pleased.  After all these years of mooching around these hallowed
> halls of knowledge, I believe I can now offer something in return.  On a
> subject dear to our hearts - brake bleeding.  Below is a summary of the
> methods used on my two Midgets.
> 1.  Brother-in-law method.  This was shown to me by my brother-in-law, a
> professional mechanic, and is my favorite method.  He is crouched by the
> front wheel yanking a wrench up and down on the bleeder .  I'm pumping the
> pedal.  When he judges the stream of brake fluid is free of air, he
> tightens it down and runs to the other wheel, where we do the same.  Total
> time involved is about 28 seconds and gives a nice firm pedal.  Slight
> drawback is that the floor is covered in brake fluid. 
> 2.  Tubing from bleeder into jam jar.  Wife pumps pedal.  Me with wrench
> yelling instructions.  Not recommended.
> 3.  EZ Bleed.  Good method for removing unsightly paint from engine
> compartment and driver's door sill.  Uses about 2 gallons of  the special
> brake fluid only sold in a store (sometimes) 34 miles away.  Also requires
> renewing the special relationship with the spare tire - that heavy,
> smelly,
> rusty, deflated thing found in the deep and dark recesses of the trunk
> where all the spiders live. 
>  (Actually, does a great job of bleeding the clutch - no doubt because the
> metal cap on the reservoir seals better)
> 4.  Saving the best to last.  This method uses a contraption consisting of
> a tube with a one way valve at one end.  The other end is fitted over the
> bleeder. (I'm trying hard not say to that word.  OK, here goes..nipple,
> nipple, NIPPLE, nipple)  Anyway,  undo the bleeder, run round and pump the
> pedal.  The one way valve allows fluid out (when the pedal is pressed) but
> does not allow air back in (when the pedal is released)  Does a great job.
> It is available from Moss (Vizibleed Bleeding Aid) for about $12 (Made in
> England) or from your local store - I got another one from Pep Boys for
> about $5 (Made in You-know-where)  The tubing on the end of this one
> managed to split (unbeknown to me) when I was bleeding the Toyota.  The
> valve, incidentally, consists of a spring and ball-bearing!
> While I'm at it I thought I would mention another tool from Moss that was
> of great help.  It's a constrictor that can squeeze the rubber brake lines
> and stop all the fluid running out when, say, the back wheel cylinders are
> replaced.  Works great.
> 
> Happy Bleeding Holidays,   Adrian

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