On the list, there occasionally arises problems where the inner liner of
a hydraulic hose collapses. This might be responsible for what you are
experiencing. The rubber hydraulic hose off the slave cylinder is
short, and a minor thing to replace, then rebleed. I think this would be
worth a try before you start doing the more expensive things.
David Lynes, Woodstock, Ga
73 Midget
78 MGB
John Trindle wrote:
>
> Please forgive me if this has been a recently answered question. I've
> been off the list for a couple of years, while my B has been mouldering at
> a friend's house due to lack of funds. A rod bearing was spun, and the
> rod itself (as well as the crank) damaged.
>
> Well, now the engine is back in the car, and runs great. However, we
> canNOT get into gear without grinding. Sort of.
>
> The symptoms are now that you can get into first or reverse once without
> grinding. Subsequent attempts in the same motor run fail, with grinding.
>
> Turn the motor off, grumble a while, and try again. Same thing.
>
> If you start with the car in reverse (or forward, I think, but I haven't
> tried it) after a rest, the car starts without moving. As you raise the
> pedal the friction point is *right* off the floor, but the clutch engages
> smoothly. Any further attempt to shift fails. If you shut off the
> engine, and put the car into gear (just like before) and start, the car
> moves immediately.
>
> It's like it "recovers" after a time. Even at its best, it's unusable
> because the friction point is so close to the floor.
>
> The pedal feel is very good. It's been bled a couple times with an
> EZ-bleed with no further improvement.
>
> The master cylinder is new. The slave has been rebuilt in the last week
> with a kit (new seal, boot). There is no mechanical slop on the pedal end.
> The clevis bolt from slave to clutch fork is new, because the one which
> was on the car when it was parked was badly worn. The hole in the clutch
> fork is round, the one in the slave fork somewhat ovalled. (HOWEVER,
> remember the clutch worked OK just before the engine blew up, and it
> would have had that same ovalling then, plus the worn clevis).
>
> We've pulled back the clutch fork with a come-along, with the slave
> disconnected, and the clutch does disengage and we can go into all gears.
> Unfortunately, we didn't measure how far back that was.
>
> The slave fork/bolt/clutch fork end moves 5/16 or 3/8". There is no
> visible movement when you hold the clutch pedal down. There is no fluid
> leaking from the master or slave.
>
> *sigh*. Any ideas? Thank you very much.
>
> --
> John M. Trindle | johnt@tsquare.com | Tidewater Sports Car Club
> '73 MGB DSP | '69 Spitfire H Stock | '88 RX-7 C Stock
|