The car had a monstrous amount of shake before any of this was started. The
repairs/mods were made because those areas were shot...even the wheels were
bent. This car was the classic case of "it works great for the first 6
months you have it, then everything goes to crap."
>
> Lets see. Did it shake after the rear spax conversion?
Yes.
> After the
> front went
> in?
Yes, but not as bad.
>After the new tires and wheels went on?
This improved the situation a whole lot, but it's still present at higher
speeds, like I said.
>Did you change a
> bunch of stuff
> all at the same time?
Yes and no. The rear was done one season. The next season, the front and
new wheels were added, but not at the same time. I made the mistake of
thinking that the front end was probably the culprit, and although it did
seem to help, it didn't totally fix it.
> Who did the
> spax conversion?
A local MG specialist.
>are you sure everything went in right?
As sure as I can be.
>What about A-arm
> bushings?
New
> Did you put the spax in because your front shocks were
> completely
> shot?
Yup.
>The front shock is still in there now isn't it? How are >the shock
> arms? Mine were all sloppy before I put in rebuilt >shocks, and
> the rebuilts
> got rid of a lot of shake. It isn't functioning as a >shock anymore but it
> is still the upper link of your front suspension. If it's worn
> out you need
> to replace it. I also think that with these conversions, you
> leave the oil
> in the shock, but remove the valve. I guess a leaky one might be
> a problem
> too then.
This is an area I should check on. I'm not sure now what he actually did
with the old shock. I know those things were SUPPOSED to be done, but who
knows?
=J=
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