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RE: lacquer or enamel and why?

To: Matt.DeBoer@ejgallo.com
Subject: RE: lacquer or enamel and why?
From: Art Pfenninger <ch155@freenet.buffalo.edu>
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 06:57:25 -0400 (EDT)
On Thu, 15 Apr 1999 Matt.DeBoer@ejgallo.com wrote:

> Mike-
> 
> The normal caveats first... I'm not a professional and my suggestion is
> dated (was using 10 or 15 years ago).  With that said... 
> 
> I like lacquer a lot (especially for beginners)... but don't like that
> something as simple as bird droppings can etch nastiness into a new
> paintjob.  My suggestion is to put a urethane clear (with hardener) on after
> the color coat is finished.  The urethane is virtually impenetrable and can
> easily be compounded (buffed) within a couple of days of shooting it.  My
> reasons for suggesting this...
> 
> *     Lacquer mixes somewhere in the 2 parts thinner to 1 part paint...
> and dries inside out.  This quick drying has many advantages... quick to
> rework; dust on the ground, not painted floor.
> *     Enamel mixes somewhere in the 1 part thinner to 1 part paint... and
> dries outside in (i.e. skins over and then cures).  New enamel paint jobs
> can be dry to the touch, but will take a fingernail dent rather easily.
> *     Lacquer mistakes can be sanded usually within an hour of painting...
> and then repainted immediately.
> *     Enamel mistakes can take weeks to be "cured" enough to sand...
> painting over fresh enamel can be troublesome too (orange peel, etc.).
> *     Color and metallic particles in paint add to the "sag" and "drip"
> factor... being able to easily work through mistakes with lacquer and then
> use a top coat with no extra particle weight increases a beginner's chance
> for a smooth, clear finish.
> *     Lacquer paint jobs (with or without urethane) require buffing... the
> work isn't done when you're done painting.
> 
> The one downside to this approach is buying essentially two different
> products for one paint job... and urethane clear isn't cheap.  If you're
> going to keep a great coat of wax on your car and be able to get to bird
> droppings quickly, stopping with the lacquer may be enough.
> 
> Good luck on your project!
> 
> Matt
> '72 MGB
> 
> PS Any pro's out there, please feel free to correct the information I've
> given Mike if it's bad... 'cause I've got a car that needs paint too!
> 
        Matt I agree, one other point I've never seen a good enamel paint 
job done by anyone except an expert. There are too many variations in
pressure, mixture, speed etc. that effect to luster and depth of the
paint. With lacquer I've never seen a car that didn't shine and have
depth to the shine. I'm not sure about the clear coat but I would think
that it wouldn't have to be buffed, after all they don't buff new cars
with a clear coat finish. I would think that it should look like the
lacquer job before it is buffed if you just put water on it. This is the
perfect shine!
...Art> > > > > > 


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