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RE: Autocross Set-Up

To: "MG list (E-mail)" <mgs@autox.team.net>,
Subject: RE: Autocross Set-Up
From: Joe Short <buster_balz@operamail.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 11:40:03 -0400
I run my '75 B in autoX, I have installed quite a few modifications, and as a 
result I run in DSP. If you are looking at trying for a national title, either 
build an all out competition car or look for a more competetive modern car. 
For my money, the B is a really fun car to drive and race, and in the smaller 
clubs I race with it can even run up front. I have the wins to prove it.
    I have the Addco 1" front sway bar on it.
Also, you will want the negative camber A-arms, firmer shocks, and the single 
biggest improvement you can make for auotx is tires. I also have the braded 
steel brake and clutch lines, they are nice but not necessary, you will want 
to focus on brake pads and shoes. Install better pads of a harder compound.
You don't want them too hard because then they aren't likely to get hot enough 
to work. High performance street compounds should do nicely. Because my car is 
a rubber bumper car, I lowered it and added the huge front bar, along with 
Addco's bar I installed their adjustable end links and poly bushings, this 
allows some tunability of the sway bar, and keeps it mounted very firmly to 
help provide quick response. Also, upgread every bushing in the front end that 
you can. The car will ride some what harder, but it will pay off big on the 
track. While you are buying sticky tires, buy wheels too, lighter alloy wheels
mean less unsprung weight on the suspension, which helps in the responsiveness 
area. Consider slightly wider wheels but no wider that 6 inches with the 
proper backspacing and offset. I also have some bolt on engine mods, but 
strongly recommend some drivability mods for competition, first off and 
probably the most beneficail and most over looked is a good driver's seat and 
harness.
You want the driver to stay still right behind the steering wheel throughout 
your run so a seat that is firm and very supportive combined with a good 
harness system that is fastened as tighly as you can stand it is practically a 
requirement. If you are flying all over the place as the car is going form 
turn to turn, you will not be able to maintain total car control because 
you'll be struggling to stay in the car. Also,a steering wheel with a smaller 
diameter will result provide the effect of a faster ratio steering rack. 
Hope this is helpful, I know it's a lot but you don't need to do everything,
it all depends on what you want. Good luck, and when racing always remember 
these 2 rules.
1. Wide open 'til you see God, then brake.
2. Autocrossers go in deeper and come out harder.
Have fun !!





>===== Original Message From Nancy Preston <npreston@fullnet.com> =====
>I have a 1971 MGB that I'm interested in racing in autocross events.  I 
attended a high performance racing class at the Mid-Ohio Racing school and 
I've got the bug.  My B has mostly all original equipment and I "think" that, 
at a minimum, I need a
>3/4" sway bar and aeroquip brake lines.  Any other suggestions?
>Appreciate any help you can suggest.
>
>NLP '71 B


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