If the plate doesn't return after rotation (as if springloaded) you've
got a bum vacuum advance unit. This just happened to me -- the spring
link between the vacuum diaphragm and the breaker plate broke. The
diaphragm itself can also go bad. Either will result in a retarded
running condition.
However, this really shouldn't affect starting. Frequently poor starting
can be solved simply by replacing the cap and rotor, even if they appear
perfectly good. If the problem manifests in damp conditions this is
almost always the case.
You might want to wrap some electrical tape around that wire just to be
sure.
Hope this helps.
GMGoodman@aol.com had this to say:
>'72 B which has been totally reliable for last 10 years didn't start the
>other day. Had to go to work, but later, after work --started as usual, and
>ran fine that night and the next day. A week later----same problem. Here's
>some facts. It is definately getting fuel. Took off the cap--cleaned
>rotor
>--inspected cap -- all looked good. Hears were it gets a little hairy---due
>to my limited knowlege of distributors. Did find one wire which was frayed
>in distributor. Made sure it wasn't grounding anywhere. The plate which
>the
>points, and condenser are attached can be rotated manually by hand
>---should
>it return to the original spot when released? I was able to get it started
>but it's running as if it is highly retarded--no pep ---very slow response.
>I'm sure it's something minor and tomorrow I'll try to figure it out. Any
>ideas, or its it just time to switch to an electronic ignition? If so --can
>they be greatly retarded , as I have had to do that to get through
>emissions.
> Any help is greatly appreciated. Jerry
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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