Adam Arabian wrote:
>
> All,
> Working on my 52 TD and tried to get the cylinder head off today and
> had zero luck. All the bolts are removed per visual inspection and
> workshop manual (The rear head cover plate is still on, but I don't
> think that would impede the release of the head). According to the
> workshop manual you should loosen it up with, er, purcussive pursuasion
> (hit it with a hammer - with a block of wood between to soften the blow)
> but this did nada to it. I tried lifting it from the visible edges of
> the casting but to no avail (engine is still mounted in the car, and we
> actually were lifting the car up instead of breaking it loose).
>
Had a similar problem with my 77 Midget. What I did was spray PB Blaster
down the studs for several day, then removed all of the studs. I tried
moving the piston to the bottom of the stoke and then filling the cylinder
with some soft, clean, cotton rope. Then I rolled the car to bring the
the piston up. This should be done when the values are shut, i.e. the
compression stroke. In my case this failed, but others have had success.
I then made sure that there was nothing holding the head on, no studs,
no manifolds, etc. I then put in a couple of bolts into the water pump
holes
(on the front of the 1500 cc head) and using a 2x4, I jacked the front of
the car up by the bolts in the front of the head. I only jacked the front
wheels off the ground about 1 inch. After 2 days the head came loose.
YMMV.
Good luck, but my head was stuck tight.
--
William Gilroy
77 Midget
90 Shar-Pei
TrackTime Driving School where the only requirement is
"You must be 18 years of age or older with a valid drivers's license
and able to drive a strandard stick shift and fit through the car window"
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