It can be pretty hard to "thread" the cable unless the sheath is laid out
straight. The metal coils in the sheath form gaps on the outside of any
curves, which tend to catch the end of the wire as you try to push it
through (as you have observed). This therefore means removing it from the
car. As I recall there is a large, flat nut on the inside of the dash
that secures the cable housing. It is in a fairly annoying position to
get to, even on the relatively simple dash of a '67 (I have a '66). I may
have removed the radio so as to mount an upper-and-lower assault on it,
if I recall correctly.
Good luck.
Tony Woodruff had this to say:
>My conversion back to SU carbs required me to use a longer choke cable. A
>Previous Owner had cut both it and the throttle cable for the conversion
>to a Weber (which is now in a box on my garage floor) The car started
>right up after the rebuild and install. Now for the tuning.....
>
>
>Anybody have a good trick for getting the choke cable back through the
>"shielding"? I can't get the longer one (from the parts car) back through
>the metal shielding any longer than about 18 inches (that was accomplished
>using the 1/4" at a time with a pair of pliers method) The cable isn't
>frayed, it just gets hung up midway through.
>
>I also can't get the *@^(#$ cable holder out of the dash. I thought that
>if I could do that I'd be able to straighten the thing out and get the
>upper hand.
>
>As always, any comments are appreciated.
>
>TIA,
>
>Tony Woodruff
>67 MGB
>
>
>
>
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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